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m-fine

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Everything posted by m-fine

  1. I have not tried FOGO or mesquite in the Kamado, but using a denser charcoal definitely had an impact on how long it held at 900+. It takes a while to heat soak the ceramic and the pizza stone so I think I had my fire burning for 2 hours to have the stone at 900+ for the hour cooking window. Using cheaper charcoal like royal oak, I have had a usable window closed to 30 minutes before temps started to drop off. An hour is long enough to make a LOT of pizzas when they are cooking that fast! Also, to the naysayers and fear mongers earlier in the thread, I had the bottom vent full open and the top vent removed. It did not run away and hit kiln or steel forge temps! The air intake is the limiting factor, and you would need a blower/bellows to get anywhere close to the temperature the grill was at when Auplex had it in their kiln. The AR is very new, so no design changes. I was not accounting for your ceramic spacers. With those you should be at a perfect height. FYI, A19” stone is the MAX you can fit that high and it needs to be biased slightly to the rear for the lid to open and close. 18” would be better,/easier, and 16” is no problem at all.
  2. After over an hour with the pizza stone at 940 ish and more than two hours since lighting, there is nowhere on the outside ceramic registering higher than 656 and the lower bowl anywhere near the intake is all under 500. I have the vents shut down now, figure it should cool down enough to get the cover on by morning!
  3. Almost forget the naan shot. It came out OK, but I think I can do much much better with a few tweaks.
  4. I used Kamado Joe big block charcoal for this cook and I am SUPER impressed with the heat content. It is a denser heavy charcoal and that really helped it last. These two pictures were taken at 6:13 and 7:13 with no reloading at all. BTW, yes, for super high heat you want to start with all new charcoal.
  5. The AR is a great tool for the PB/LG, but it will be 1.5-2” short sitting on the fire bowl. You can use spacers between a grate on top of the AR to list the stone, or lift the AR. The reason I want to lift the AR is to get more room for adding charcoal, but it is splitting hairs at that point. Heating mine up to try some naan. Getting there...
  6. Here is my current pizza setup. Inverted spider with inverted 20” grate sets the base above the fire bowl (one in picture has been trimmed but not for this application). Optional 16” deflector can sit on here but I think I am preferring how it cooks without it. Note that most of my cooks are at 650 these days as I prefer a more NY style so YMMV at 900+ so try with and without. Next, the Adj. Rig sits on the inverted grate with another 20” grate on top to hold the stone, previously 16” stone, now a 19” stone from CGS. The stone is about 6.25” above the felt. Yes, you have to open the lid fully, no, not a problem as it recovers very quickly. My next step is something other than the spider and grate combo to lift the AR. So that the center is open and I can pour in more charcoal without removing the rig.
  7. You can get K type probes that will take the heat for about $1 a piece from e-bay. They are rated for 700c which is about 1300F. There are slightly more expensive ones that go higher, up to 1800c. There are no headphone jack style probes that I know of that will survive that high. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pieces-Mini-Connector-K-Type-Thermocouple-Sensors-Measure-Range-50-700-C/122417297419?epid=12007725986&hash=item1c80a3b80b:g:GDIAAOSwBSxbDRPR As for using the metal grates, no problem. Aluminum melts at 1400 F and is at risk, but 304 stainless won’t melt until over 2500 F. You won’t get there in the pit boss/LG without a serious blower. My current setup uses the CGS adjustable rig which is stainless steel, and an older non stainless kick ash basket, with no problems. I have used the original grates in the past, elevated with a CGS spider and they are fine at any temp I could reach.
  8. Get the cooking stone as high as you can. Fire bricks, stainless steel bolts, ceramic spacers, whatever SAFE items you can scrounge (no galvanized metals or stone that can shatter!). I get within 2” so the stem of the dome thermometer is nearly touching the stone. Getting the pizza high into the dome makes all the difference in getting toppings to cook as fast as the crust. Besides reflection off the dome, you have a lot of air flow right across the top of the pizza. If you use a deflector, get it above the felt line by a couple of inches and your gaskets will last longer than if it is closer. With the stone up high though, I find I don’t need the deflector at all.
  9. BTW, my temps were measured with a K type thermocouple rated to 1800. Bimetallic dome thermometers are not anywhere close to accurate at these temps. I also use an IR gun to measure when the stone is preheated. You need the right gun to measure up to 1000+ So buy carefully.
  10. The dough you use has to be tailored to the temperature you are cooking at. This is a very deep topic, so I will just leave it at that. As for getting over 900, I did it with the stock gaskets and with replacement gaskets. The stock ones lasted a few hot cooks, they did not instantly melt, but mine may have been different than what other people got. The replacements have lasted several years and I have no worries there. I have used used several brands of lump. I don’t think that is a big factor. The important part is having a deep pile that is fully lit. A Kick Ash basket of more open bottom grate helps. The stock top vent is fine, but for Neapolitan pizza, I simply remove it. I set up the pizza stone at the very top, maybe 2” from the dome so the toppings and bottom cook evenly and fast. They go from not done to done to overcooked fast so being able to see in from the top vent opening is very helpful. Is it worth it? Occasionally I guess so, but we prefer a more NY style pizza cooked at 650. This is a slightly different (less water, no oil or sugar) dough than you would use at sub 500 temps in a home oven, but not Neapolitan dough. They take a bit longer to cook but still fast, and I use the same setup with the stone raised way up to the top of the dome.
  11. I just dump in a lit chimney then fill the fire bowl all the way up. Shut the lid and leave the vents wide open. I have gotten mine well above 900, with my only concern being the gaskets, flashbacks, and not burning myself.
  12. https://images.pitboss-grills.com/catalog/dealers/pb-k24---parts-price-list---dealer.pdf
  13. I bought a two pack from Costco to test in my Pit Boss (also an Auplex grill like Vision). The short answer is it sucked. It creates way more ash and the smoke flavor from low and slow smoldering was not good. Your problem with lump is with the brand and supplier. Decent lump only has a little bit of dust and minimal chips. The chips burn fine in a Kamado fwiw.
  14. Don’t waste time or money on another felt gasket. Get the high temp stuff that will last. I used Gold Standard High Heat gasket from Amazon, but there are other high heat nomex gaskets. If you order a set for a standard 24” (internal diameter) grill, you will have a little extra.
  15. You really don’t need a reading over 700. The only thinks you might try cooking at temps above that are Neapolitan pizza and naan, and you will be better off with a high temp IR gun for those because stone temp will be more important than dome air temp. Well, that and searing where you simply want the hottest possible fire with a grate down low, and you don’t care about dome temp for that either.
  16. Some tel-tru’s can be calibrated, some cannot. Choose wisely! I drive by the factory all the time (Rochester NY) and I still by mine from Amazon...seems stupid, but it is convenient.
  17. First, try cooking hotter. 275 may be better than 225, but with a pellet grill you may get less smoke flavor. Second, do not wrap. Wrapping is the enemy of great bark. It has its purpose and place, but if you are after bark no wrapping until the meat is completely done. You can wrap in paper for the hold when it comes off the grill. Stop looking at the internal temp. That is for poultry and rare steaks. In BBQ you are cooking for a long time to tenderize a tough cut of meat. It is done when it is tender, not at a specific temperature.
  18. Every rack is different, and I would think the opposite as well, but I have had BB’s take some extra time to get where I want them. FWIW, I don’t wrap which may play a role. If you plan extra time and don’t need it, you can hold them or eat some ribs early. When I don’t plan extra time and need it is when my stress level goes up and bbq fun level goes down.
  19. 275 is plenty safe for a spatchcock chicken, but skin will need crisping at the end. Baby backs can take a little longer than spares, so I would give yourself more time.
  20. So a St. Louis cut? I have never heard these referred to as Louisiana, but St. Louis is a term that is pretty universal.
  21. Cook them hotter! No foil (or sauce) needed. If you do wrap keep it to an hour or less unless you want boneless McRib meat.
  22. Loosen, adjust, tighten BUT DONT OVER TIGHTEN.
  23. I have used mine since 2016. I had to add extra felt when new but have not had any other problems. IMHO, their current design is a big step up from the standard BGE cap, so while not the best in the market, I certainly wouldn’t call it crap.
  24. Mostly no. The PB is a 21” inside diameter grill where the KJ’s are 18 and 24.
  25. I mostly use Kamado Joe Big Block, with some occasional Royal Oak and Rockwood.
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