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CeramicChef

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Everything posted by CeramicChef

  1. @Marty - the whole point of my analysis above is that sealing the door with a gasket does absolutely nothing. Zero. Zilch. Nada. The amount of air/smoke/hot air exiting the door is nothing compared to the amount exiting through the stack in a pellet grill. Kamados control the amount of air by controlling the top bent. That is an adjustable aperature. There is nothing whatsoever like that on a pellet grill. By lowering the airflow in a pellet grill, just what exactly do you think your going to do to the combustion of pellets? They are nothing like lump. You'll have incomplete combustion and thus foul the combustion chamber. Kamado principles do not apply to pellet grills; they are an entirely different animal than kamados. Kamado principles don't apply to kettles, stick burners, bullets, gassers, etc. and so to with pellet grills.
  2. @rwalters - and I have bought Tri-Tip all over the USA. Tri-Tip UPC Code is 1429 and it's IMPS/NAMP Code 185C. Any butcher knows exactly what these codes are and they can order Tri-Tip using them. If your butcher doesn't know what these codes are, find another butcher because you're dealing with a 24 karat certified idiot. Tri-Tip can be had anywhere. It's not just a Cali staple. Be well and keep posting those great looking cooks! And YES! coconut oil adds a very nice addition to the mix.
  3. @tsh0ck - I load the wagon for every cook. A few hours? How do you know how long lump will last a priori? How much lump lasts for a few hours as you put it? I promise you one day you'll have a big chunk taken out of your butt when you think you have enough lump for just a few hours. It ALWAYS happens and at the worst possible time. What have you got to lose by loading up your firebox before every cook? It takes what, 10 seconds to dump the lump? Better safe than sorry.
  4. @rwalters - hey! You Prune Pickers out there in Cali don't have a monopoly on Tri-Tip! I've bought Tri-Tip all over the US, no problem. If that's the only thing keeping you in Cali, pack your bags and move to somewhere without the the Cali bull butter tha goes with living there. I've lived in Cali and I couldn't wait to leave. And I did. But I will say that Tri-Tip is a wonderful cut of meat and great pics!
  5. How about posting pics of your setup to help us visualize what the heck you're talking about? Thanks in advance.
  6. @tsh0ck - nice cook. Every cook should be a learning experience and I'm glad you learned that even mistakes can be really tasty. Congrats and cook on! Nothing wrong with those pork cops in my book. On a side note, in looking at the picture of your lump and fire, there seems to be a lot of empty space in that fire box. I would urge you in the strongest possible terms to always fill your fire box full with lump. Just dump the lump and light the fire. Yu don't need to build a nice looking little mound. Just dump the lump and light the fire. Trying to guess how much lump a give cook will take will always bite you in the seat of your anatomy. You will always be wrong. Just always begin with a full firebox and you'll never have to throw out a cook because you ran out of lump during an overnight cook. Keep up the good work.
  7. @John Setzler - I agree that is a LOT of curing salt. Could this have been a misprint?
  8. CeramicChef

    Intro

    Welcome to Kamado Guru amd welcome to The Addiction.
  9. Welcome to Kamado Huru and welcome to The Addiction.
  10. Welcome to Kamado Guru and welcome to The Addiction.
  11. I am talking about CI bs Stainless Steel which is the topic posed by the OP and I restricted my remarks to the topic at hand. As for a full on sear, that's another question entirely and well beyond the scope of this thread.
  12. This topic is pointless. In a blind taste test I guarantee you that 999 people out of 1,000 can't tell the difference between a steak seared on cast iron and one seared on stainless steel. This whole debate is the BBQ version of "How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?". Does anyone ever bother with the search function?
  13. I make my own right here in OKC. Why pay 10 prices for what is essentially salt, pepper, sugar, paprika, etc.?
  14. @Kingfish - based on your post, it seems to me that you need to learn two things: 1) the vent settings that yield common kamado operating temps, and 2) the response curve of your kamado to changes in vent settings. Understand that the bottom vent controls airflow into your kamado and is used for gross temp ranges, i.e. 200-300F, 300-400F, and 400-500F+. The top vent is used to fine tune temps, i.e. 225°, 350°, etc. I would suggest that you invest the time to learn your kamado. Take a weekend day, load up your kamado with lump, get a good supply of your favorite carbonated adult beverage, and settle in for the day. Light your lump pile in a single spot and very slowly get your kamado to 225. Let the kamado dwell at that tep for about 30 minutes and hydrate. Then open the top vent and hit 250. Again let the Kamado dwell at temp for 30 minutes and hydrate. You'll do this drill in increments of 25° until you hit 300°. Once you've hit 300 and your kamado has remain constant at 300 and you're hydrated, open the bottom vent a bit and close down on the top vent. Hit 325 and repeat the exercise in 25° increments until you hit 400°. The open the bottom vent a bit more and close down on the top vent. Repeat the exercise in 25° increments until you hit 500°. Now it's time to cook something! Don't waste a perfectly good fire. I recommend a nice NY Strip. Make notes as to what vent settings yield which specific temps. These vent settings are invariant for your specific kamado. Also notice how quickly vent changes affect temperatures. Again, this behavior is specific to your kamado. What you've experienced is fairly common amount new kamado users. You're chasing temp and that is exactly the wrong thing to do. It's a fruitless endeavor. Learn your kamado's vent settings and response curve and you'll do just fine.
  15. Welcome to Kamado Huru and welcome to The Addiction.
  16. @ckreef - you never need to ask, Charles. Good thread you've posted.
  17. @ckreef - well written. Gurus who don't use some sort of drip pan on greasy cooks are just begging for dangerous fires. Grease that drips freely leads directly to flashbacks when the lid on the kamado is lifted. Those flashbacks burn people, sometimes requiring medical attention that can lead to hospitalization and treatment by a burn specialist. Nobody want that. The moral is ALWAYS use a drip pan on every low-n-slow cook. You should always have an ABC fire extinguished near your kamado. That extinguisher should be no closer than 5 feet and no further than 10 feet from your kamado. DO NOT store your fire extinguisher in your table holding your kamado because in the event of a fire, you won't be able to get to the extinguisher. Being so close to a burning kamado means that extinguisher could very well explode scattering shrapnel everywhere and injuring bystanders. After every greasy cook, please do a high temp cleaning burn after your take your cook off the grill. Just open the vents and get your kamado to something like 500°F for 20-30 minutes. Don't think you'll remember to go close the vents. Set an alarm to remind you. There is nothing more dangerous that a kamado that has gone nuclear. Just set the alarm and be safe. Also, never do a high temp burn with an overhang of any sort. The lesson here in this thread is that a clean kamado is a safe kamado and makes for a happy backyard chef.
  18. @afro-d - welcome to Kamado Guru and welcome to Thr Addiction.
  19. Gurus - door gaskets accomplish very little, or so it seems to me. Let's look at some numbers. First, the average stack on a pellet pooper is about 3 inches in diameter. That equates to a surface area of about 7.1 sq. in. for exhaust gases to exit the cooker. The average door is about 2.5 feet wide and about 1.5 feet in depth. That means the perimeter is 8 feet. If we assume that the doors seal to within 1/16 of an inch, that means that the surface area of 0.50 sq. in. of space around the door through which exhaust gases can exit the cooker. If we assume a gap of 1/32" (more realistic I think) you have 0.25 sq. in. Looking at the ratio of the stack area to the area around the door, it's about 14:1. That's big. For a 1/32 in. Gap you have a ratio of 28:1. That's huge. Fluids always follow the path of least resistance. Virtually everything in the pellet pooper exits through the stack, not leaks around lift door. The moral of this analysis is that door gaskets are a waste of money, time, and effort. They contribute nothing to efficiency. When was the last time you saw smoke exiting around the pellet pooper's door? Many GUrus here don't replace worn gaskets and their cooks turn out wonderfully. Insulation blanket, much as I've see on the Yoders are an entirely different matter. I haven't run any numbers, but heat flux across the surface are of the cooker would seem to overwhelm any heat flux out the stack. Yoder recognized that long ago with their form fitting blanket option. Insulation makes a lot of sense. It will most definitely lower the operating costs. Gaskets make sense only at the thinnest of margins if at all.
  20. I make great use of my multi probe iGrill as well as my Thermoworks Instant Read. Both have a real place in my cooking arsenal. The iGrill is excellent at letting me monitor reverse sears, low-n-slow cooks, cheese smokes, etc. My instant read I use on every low-n-slow to probe for tenderness and temp near the end of a cook. I also use it in some no traditional ways like probing lasagna cooks, enchilada cooks, bird cooks, etc. Both have a real place in my cooking equipment. Thermometers are, to me, like knives ... One size doesn't fit all.
  21. That's one seriously beautiful and tasty fish cook. Kudos, kudos, kudos. Amazing colors in this post. @keeperovdeflame - this almost makes me want to take up fishing, but ... I think it's easier and cheaper to know a great fish monger. Having cooked on kamados for years, I am really good at the sitting and drinking beer that seem to be such a big part of fishing. It's the $100,000 in tackle, rods, reels, waders, nets, etc. that gives me pause for thought!
  22. @Springbringer - welcome to Kamado Guru and welcome to The Addiction.
  23. @carophill11 - dance with who brung ya. Get a heat deflector and a good digital multiprobe thermometer. Get a pizza stone. Get some good quality lump. Get some really nice beer that goes with BBQ ... I suggest Landshark. Light the fire and start cooking! Welcome aboard. Now go have fun.
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