Jump to content

Danwilderspin

Members Plus
  • Content Count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all I have finished building my walls and timber counter to sink the joe in. I have done it all and a buddy came over for a bbq and he mentioned o have not done it the normal way and a quick google proves him right. I have made the top of the base flush with the counter. Logic for this was easily being able to flick pizzas off onto cardboard trays - is there any issues my way?
  2. Hi all - had my jr/classic for a while now and I seem to get this problem - and it only seems to be night cooks just to mess with me :-) if I try and shoot for really low temps (the bottom to middle of low on the thermometer on the dome) I fill the baskets up with lump and make a slight pyramid I then get it set up after a few minutes and let it stabilise for 45 mins. Fast forward to 4am alarm goes off as temps are dropping go out (everytime) look at the firebox it’s still full but a core has burnt right down to the bottom and burnt out so I then have to mess about re making it up - any ideas? If I got to top end of smoking it seems to spread ok? cheers
  3. Yes that’s what i ended up doing makes more sense butt hen that begs the question why does it swing out at all
  4. I will indeed - side question John as you know your stuff - I have a brand new gasket fitted to the chimney and original daisy wheel setup was very tight. If I open this fully up so swing the partial venting out the weight of it tilts the hole vent as it’s not tight enough on the chimney - is that normal? I’d need to double gasket or something if so..
  5. Yes sir - above the E at the top you can see it has dipped which it hadn’t before
  6. Hi all - last week I treated myself to a new kontrol tower for my classic I. Today I thought I’d do some pizzas as the weather was nice and hot and put the kontrol tower on before I started. Anyway cooking around 700ish so fairly hot I shut the vents all down when done and notice the top warped? Surely this is a massive design fault if it’s thst thin it can do that? It not catches when I turn it which is not what I paid £70 for! Is this normal with these or should i go to kj about this? A little reluctant as I feel I may get a name for myself as just had the new firebox and the base has gained a crack they are replacing!
  7. Just a quick point of a smaller deflector or stone was used would you hit the temps quicker/easier? I’m thinking I have a 10inch deflector / stone setup in my jr if I put this in my classic it should easily hit those temps?
  8. Any idea when this is available for classic I/II and will it be dojoe money or more or less?
  9. I did it last year Father’s Day full bone. Google yielded no results so I did my own thing. Firstly with no deflectors and the firebox ring removed I seared it Dome up for a couple of minutes each side (maybe slightly less) I then took it off put the ring back heat deflector in and put a probe in cooked low and slow until a medium kind of temperature took about 30-40mins but that was the best tomahawk ever! I had to have the bone stick out the chimney though so I shut the daisy wheel right down and butted it up against the bone to get about the right airflow!
  10. Ok - any ideas on the best match red paint :-) thanks!
  11. Yea it seems a strange place to go - thanks and will keep you posted!
  12. My classic has developed a crack about the width of the hinge beneath the hinge. Having dealt with support (awesome as ever) on remover the bands the hinge was mounts very unevenly (the holes were wonky) and we think it may have pinpointed the stress so they are sending a replacement. unfortunately as I’m not in the US they have told me it may be a month or two before I get it which is fine but I want to keep cooking and stop the crack. From what I’ve read you need to find the exact end of the crack and drill it to stop it spreading. My questions are these, can I do this but not go all the way through and it work? I’m thinking stop around 3-4mm from the glaze so there not a big hole to patch? Further to that would you use refractory clay or jb weld to then plug the holes? Thanks as always!
  13. Thanks guys, John, how tight should it be? it is tight as it is I have just gone another three turns and will check on next cook
×
×
  • Create New...