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RoodyPooBBQ

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    South Philly
  • Interests
    Meat
  • Grill
    Kamado Joe

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  1. How are you deciding that your lid thermometer is off? You're comparing measurements at two different locations. That being said, after adding a KJ along with my Akorn, I find that the dome thermometer on the KJ is closer to the grate temp (in highest position) than the real dome temp is in my Akorn to the grate temp. Regardless, I'm not sure that your method of checking is very accurate, since if you're using something like a Thermopen, it's likely only long enough to measure the direct heat over the gap between the coals and the deflector, rather than the temp over the middle of the deflector which is where the meat would be.
  2. With Akorn, I can't think of any great reason not to always keep a full fire box full of coals. As mentioned, whether you're cooking for an hour or 18 hours, just shut down the vents and re-use whatever is left over. After I replaced all my gaskets, the thing became so damn efficient that I'd look in my fire box after a 12-hr cook and it would look like only a couple of full coals had actually burnt. As for starting the fire, I think the volcano method is good for a rookie - it's just too easy to light too much at first and you'll never cool it off. Once you get the hang of temp controlling, it doesn't really matter how you light it as long as you don't light too much. With my Akorn, I usually light in two spots with the wafer-style lighters and then just swirl the coals around after 8-10 mins and put in the wood and deflectors. Again, it really doesn't matter once you get used to how much lit coals to start with. I've found that control - with Akorn and even my KJ - starts at the bottom. You should establish 'baseline' positions for each temp range, and adjust to those before getting to within 50 degrees of your target temp. Then the bottom doesn't move. Precision adjustments are made at the top. For my Akorn, I've found that it 'locks in' with the bottom basically at the screw (so not even visibly open, but technically still letting some air in) and the top at not even a crescent moon. Basically just enough for a pencil tip (just the tip) to get in. If an adjustment is needed to raise temps, I bump the top by a bit, wait 15 mins to see where it settles in (you really need to wait for it to settle), then go from there. Akorn is extremely responsive, and as long as you don't have wicked air leaks (which is common on many of them since it is, after all, a budget oven) it's easy to control. That being said, I eventually modded it to work with Billows to control temps just for peace of mind while I'm sleeping, and haven't looked back. Bottom line - fix the bottom to some baseline point that gets you within plus/minus 50 of your range, then only move the top during the cook. No too cooks will be exactly the same, but it's a hell of a lot easier to only worry about making miniscule adjustments to the top because you have confidence in where your bottom is. Plus or minus 30ish degrees is normal during a cook and nothing to worry about (can happen if using cheap odd-size charcoal, or windy conditions, or other factors) as long as it stays within that range. I swear there are no intentional sexual innuendoes in this post.
  3. The longer it's 'settled in', the quicker it'll regain temps when you open the lid (just be careful when opening the lid on an akorn as that momentary influx of air can cause a temporary spike.) With my Akorn, I've found that once up to temp and stable, it still takes 30 mins or so to get to clean clear smoke (occasionally longer depending on multiple factors) so that usually gets me to around 45 mins of 'preheat' before any food goes on which works out just fine.
  4. The KT that came with my new BJ2 is loose, so much so that I worry that it'll pop off if I'm not careful while removing the cover. It's air tight during cooking - not a puff of smoke escapes - so the stock gasket works just fine, but it could definitely be physically tighter. I too have plenty of leftover felt from my Akorn days, so maybe I'll try that too if it becomes necessary.
  5. billows works great on my akorn, just a little trial and error to learn the quirks I've held 220-230 for 18 hrs in volatile ambient conditions with it.
  6. Thanks for that review. That matches many other reviews I've read across the net, but of course, there's the folks that swear by them. I wonder if they've only used the SloRoller, or are going off of solid before/after comparisons. Definitely something I'd like to try out, but I'm not going to spend the $250ish just to experiment, so maybe I'll keep my eyes on the classified section and craigslist to see if anyone's getting rid of one.
  7. I searched and didn't find any existing topic on this - at least not within the past two years. If this is a dup please just direct me to the original. I have a Big Joe 2 and was interested in adding the SloRoller, but I know that it was specifically designed to work with the shape of the Joe 3 series, rather than the shorter Joe 2. Has anyone that's added it to their Joe 2 noticed any improvement in their cooks? Or is it one of those things that is technically compatible with the 2, but really not beneficial unless you have the 3?
  8. I filed a warranty claim on-line on Sunday and they shipped out some touch-up paint on Monday morning! Should get it tomorrow. Really impressed by how fast they acted on that, considering their warranty site says to allow something like 5-10 business days for a response.
  9. I did a lot of research between BJ 1, 2, and 3, and ultimately decided that the upgrades on the 2 were worth it to me. In hindsight, I'll probably eventually end up spending the difference between the 2 and 3 on accessories anyway and should have just gone with the 3, but that was too much of an up-front cost to swallow. It's my first Joe so I don't have experience with them, but I have an Akorn and I've replaced the gaskets with the nomex felt style that I think is used on the KJ 1s (I know it's used on the Eggs) and while it was amazing at first, I found that I do need to replace it more than I'd like, as after many uses, there's definitely some air leaks. and it gets filthy. The gaskets in the 2 seem like they'd be bulletproof - but again, I haven't used it yet. The air-lift hinge isn't a big deal at all. I can't imagine the dome on a Classic being to heavy for the occasional weekend BBQer to have an issue with. The Kontrol top tower thing is a really nice upgrade over the daisy wheel. My Akorn has a similar daisy wheel, and while you can still control temps, it's very sensitive to wind, and living where I do, I often have to clip a little umbrella to the grill handle to make sure rain doesn't get in through the wheel. Now, you could get the Classic 1 and upgrade the gasket and Kontrol top for less than a Classic 2, but I'd ensure that all the cool accessories that your son may use are compatible with the Classic 1. One reason I went with KJ was because of all of the cool (overpriced, IMO) accessories, and I made sure that everything for the 3 also works for the 2. If you choose the 1, just make sure everything you or he may buy in the future is compatible.
  10. I know this is an old post, but it absolutely DOES work with Akorn. Check out my posts in the Akorn thread for some photos. In fact, it works great!
  11. What's the risk of letting it go for a while? As long as it's covered, it shouldn't get wet or anything.
  12. Considering the small size of the chip, it'd be a total waste to replace the base. Plus the effort wouldn't be worth it on my end. I'll see what they say. It's certainly not the end of the world - I would imagine any high-temp paint would suffice, and I'd just need a dab or two.
  13. Makes sense. I use mine much less - maybe a brisket per month, and just typical home BBQ stuff. Rarely going through bone, but I have a heavy-### Dexter cleaver for super tough stuff. My favorite knife ever is the Dalstrong Raptor, which admittedly I got just because I thought it looked cool, but it's super versatile and probably the sharpest out-of-the-box knife I've ever had.
  14. Victorinox Fibrox FLEXIBLE fillet knife changed my life when it comes to trimming briskets and other meats. I have a Zwilling pro version that's really stiff, and while it should be a "better" knife, I find the flex in the Victorinox to be a big advantage. On the other hand, I also have the Victorinox Fibrox 12" brisket slicing knife, and really dislike it. I'm not sure if it just came dull or what, but it really doesn't do a great job and I've resorted to using my 10" Zwilling Pro chef's knife on my last brisket (an excellent knife, but does require sharpening at least once / year). I'm sure a Dexter slicer is fine - if that's what the pros use then I'm sure it's good enough for me - but I might get a Dalstrong Shogun 12" slicer instead since I'm a sucker for the look of it and having something with a full tang. I have a couple of their other knives and absolutely love them - the only problem is that their quality control must not be good, because I've had to exchange a few due to them coming either with chips or other blemishes. But once you get a good one, it's great.
  15. Weird - I ordered over a week ago and haven't even gotten a tracking number, let alone my charcoal. All I got was the order confirmation.
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