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RoodyPooBBQ

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Everything posted by RoodyPooBBQ

  1. I did a lot of research between BJ 1, 2, and 3, and ultimately decided that the upgrades on the 2 were worth it to me. In hindsight, I'll probably eventually end up spending the difference between the 2 and 3 on accessories anyway and should have just gone with the 3, but that was too much of an up-front cost to swallow. It's my first Joe so I don't have experience with them, but I have an Akorn and I've replaced the gaskets with the nomex felt style that I think is used on the KJ 1s (I know it's used on the Eggs) and while it was amazing at first, I found that I do need to replace it more than I'd like, as after many uses, there's definitely some air leaks. and it gets filthy. The gaskets in the 2 seem like they'd be bulletproof - but again, I haven't used it yet. The air-lift hinge isn't a big deal at all. I can't imagine the dome on a Classic being to heavy for the occasional weekend BBQer to have an issue with. The Kontrol top tower thing is a really nice upgrade over the daisy wheel. My Akorn has a similar daisy wheel, and while you can still control temps, it's very sensitive to wind, and living where I do, I often have to clip a little umbrella to the grill handle to make sure rain doesn't get in through the wheel. Now, you could get the Classic 1 and upgrade the gasket and Kontrol top for less than a Classic 2, but I'd ensure that all the cool accessories that your son may use are compatible with the Classic 1. One reason I went with KJ was because of all of the cool (overpriced, IMO) accessories, and I made sure that everything for the 3 also works for the 2. If you choose the 1, just make sure everything you or he may buy in the future is compatible.
  2. I know this is an old post, but it absolutely DOES work with Akorn. Check out my posts in the Akorn thread for some photos. In fact, it works great!
  3. What's the risk of letting it go for a while? As long as it's covered, it shouldn't get wet or anything.
  4. Considering the small size of the chip, it'd be a total waste to replace the base. Plus the effort wouldn't be worth it on my end. I'll see what they say. It's certainly not the end of the world - I would imagine any high-temp paint would suffice, and I'd just need a dab or two.
  5. Makes sense. I use mine much less - maybe a brisket per month, and just typical home BBQ stuff. Rarely going through bone, but I have a heavy-### Dexter cleaver for super tough stuff. My favorite knife ever is the Dalstrong Raptor, which admittedly I got just because I thought it looked cool, but it's super versatile and probably the sharpest out-of-the-box knife I've ever had.
  6. Victorinox Fibrox FLEXIBLE fillet knife changed my life when it comes to trimming briskets and other meats. I have a Zwilling pro version that's really stiff, and while it should be a "better" knife, I find the flex in the Victorinox to be a big advantage. On the other hand, I also have the Victorinox Fibrox 12" brisket slicing knife, and really dislike it. I'm not sure if it just came dull or what, but it really doesn't do a great job and I've resorted to using my 10" Zwilling Pro chef's knife on my last brisket (an excellent knife, but does require sharpening at least once / year). I'm sure a Dexter slicer is fine - if that's what the pros use then I'm sure it's good enough for me - but I might get a Dalstrong Shogun 12" slicer instead since I'm a sucker for the look of it and having something with a full tang. I have a couple of their other knives and absolutely love them - the only problem is that their quality control must not be good, because I've had to exchange a few due to them coming either with chips or other blemishes. But once you get a good one, it's great.
  7. Weird - I ordered over a week ago and haven't even gotten a tracking number, let alone my charcoal. All I got was the order confirmation.
  8. There was one issue though - there's a small chip in the enamel right on the front. It's not something I'm super concerned about, but the touch up paint that KJ sells costs 3x as much to ship as the price of the paint itself (and takes a month for delivery according to them.) I called BBQGuys to see if they had anything and they just said to file a warranty claim with KJ so that's probably not going to result in a timely solution. Is there anything special about it - or would some red Testors be OK? Anyone know some easily available touch-up paint that would be ok to use? EDIT: it's almost identical to the one someone posted about here:
  9. Well we did it!!! It did require removing the lid, and using a shoulder dolly to carry the bottom in sideways, but we got it. I will say that I'll never order any freight shipment from BBQGuys ever again, as the freight carrier they use is the worst I've ever dealt with. They're supposed to call to set up a delivery window (even says so on their website), but instead just tell you when it's coming, with no window, so you're held hostage. They didn't come till 7PM, and left the pallet in the middle of the street in front of my house. Thank god I have good friends that basically stayed at my house all day with me waiting for the thing to come.
  10. Have enough lump? I've been using the KJ lump in my Akorn, but have been really disappointed with my last few bags so I ordered a bag of that Fogo you got there (I'm assuming that's Fogo).
  11. Oh cool - thanks. I thought it actually came "cradled" in the cart. This is gonna be something! I guess there's a reason there's not many folks in south philly rowhomes cooking on xl Kamados!
  12. This might be a dumb question, but how do you get it out of the cart when unboxing it? I watched a few unboxing videos and it looks like it comes basically assembled, so lifting it out of the cart could be an issue. Could it be carefully laid on its side and slid out of the cart? Or is there an easier technique? I'm very excited for this cooker... just extremely nervous about getting it into the house (and then out the back door)!
  13. Thanks for all the replies fellas! The weight could be an issue due to the steps. There's only 4, but that's going to be a pain. I found this video which shows removing the lid/hinge. It doesn't seem too complicated (as long as the locking nut thing is included with the Joe) but definitely not ideal.
  14. I'd imagine they're the same on the Big Joe as the Classic. So are you saying they're at an angle? That would probably be the best case scenario for me. The weight might still be an issue without removing the lid since I have to "hop" it up three steps on my stoop before getting it into the house. At ~400lbs, that's no small feat without shattering it.
  15. Thanks. Any idea how long the bolts stick out? Since I have to remove the lid/hinge anyway, I'm also considering if I can bring the body inside sideways since it appears to be taller than it is wide, but I cannot find any spec sheets that show the exact measurement.
  16. I know you're not asking me, but I've never had any issues at all running long cooks even if the majority of my fuel is "left over". Basically I mash the hell out of it with a poker just to get all the ash out and smash up the "dead" pieces, then I just throw new coal over the leftover and am good. I'm currently in an Akorn and have run 22hrs with a full basket that was made up of probably 75% leftover. For what it's worth, I currently use KJ Big Block, but have had similar results with Royal Oak red bag. Honestly I find the Big Block overrated and not appreciatively better than the RO.
  17. I ordered a Big Joe 2 from BBQ Guys. My issue is that I'm in a small city rowhome and my front and back doors have only about 29" clearance even with doors removed. From looking at the specs, it looks like if I am able to remove the lid, remove the side trays, and get the body out of the cart, the body should be 28" and be just barely OK. My question is - has anyone done this? I'm a little intimidated due to the weight and the lack of instruction for removing all the parts. From one thread I read, even if you remove the side trays, there's posts left behind that could screw me up.
  18. Did a 14 hour brisket cook with Billows on Akorn, and it held between 220-230 the entire time until I cranked it to 250 towards the end. The Akorn holds temp well, but the Billows has provided extra piece of mind and allows me to sleep comfortably. the fan damper is the absolute key, as you want it just barely cracked. Without it, you’ll never keep your temp from shooting through the roof.
  19. For what it’s worth, it ended up being the best brisket I ever cooked. Will never again hesitate to buy and freeze if I come across them super cheap.
  20. Bought a 13 lb USDA Prime brisket 5 months ago in cryovac from Costco because of ridiculous price. Froze it as soon as I got home. I took it out to thaw on Sunday (6 days before the planned cook) because I figured it would take 3-4 days to thaw. It actually thawed in 2 days, so it's just sitting in the cryovac soaked in myoglobin now. The question is - if it's been fully thawed for 4.5 days prior to the cook (but still in cryovac), should it still be good? The amount of myoglobin is more than I've ever seen in a fresh brisket, but I suppose that's normal for a thawed one since it's naturally going to lose water (which will just be injected back in anyway.) If it's not good, will it be blatantly obvious (i.e. I'll vomit all over the place as soon as I open the cryovac)? I know that cryovac can cause other types of meat to have funky smells even though they're still good, but I don't have experience with brisket sitting in the fridge for this long (it's also the first brisket I've ever froze then thawed.)
  21. I used my Billows again with Akron yesterday, and played around with changing the temp from 225, 250, 275, 300, and it adjusted and held almost perfectly for hours. I think the fan damper is critical, as I had it barely open, which helps it hold the temp once the fan stops moving rather than still letting in air that could allow the fire to continue rising.
  22. Tried the Billows again yesterday for the first time since my initial attempt many months ago. Much better results - not perfect, but better. I got their plastic damper thingie that goes over the fan to reduce the CFM, and opened it to only like a CM. Maybe even less. Then put a half Weber wax cube in the middle of the charcoal, lit it, and immediately installed the deflector and grate and shut the lid. Typically I'd let it sit for 10 mins wide open in order to let the air get the fire going, but not this time. I only had the top vent open a tiny crack (even though my Akorn is very well sealed, I find that I simply cannot have the vents open more than a crack unless I'm actively raising the temp rather than holding it. Billows was set to 225. It overshot a tad, but went from nothing to a relatively-stable 242 in 12 mins, and the smoke turned clear quicker than I'm used to. It held between 225-250 (which is an acceptable variance for me) for the roughly 6 hours of my test (so basically the fan never needed to even kick in after it got to temp). I then raised the temp using Signals just to test the fan actually contributing, so I set it to 275 while it was down around 225, and it hit the mark very quickly and stayed around there. So my conclusion is that it's overkill for the Akorn - moves too much air unless you totally choke it down like I did (or even more). It will probably work if you all but shut down your top vent, and choke the Billows intake down to next to nothing, so it blows to get to temp, but there's not enough air flow otherwise to hold the temp so it drops, then Billows kicks in (I guess that's kind of the point of it though.) Every Akorn owner knows that once the fire gets going too much, you're pretty much toast - you're going to overshoot, and obviously a fan can't lower your temp, only raise it. So let it do that - let the bare minimum of air in and let it go. It gave me enough confidence to at least attempt an overnight cook.
  23. sorry for late reply. Used a step bit that I had laying around after my uds build. It didn’t take much effort, though the diameter is practically as wide as the slider opening.
  24. Finally got a chance to try this out. Definitely going to take some trial/error. I used the plastic demper jawn that they sell which allows you to restrict the air flow as much as you want. I think this accessory is a necessary addition. For reference - when smoking without Billows, I usually hold my temp when I have the intake just barely open. You can't even see air - it's at the left-most screw. The top is also just barely open - just the little half-moon shaped ones are open - so basically like 1 or 2mm. I have never gotten it to hold temps with either intake or exhaust more open. I've also done a full gasket replacement with nomex, and have RTVd around the intake - and the whole thing is air tight. Filled firebox with kJ lump. Dug a little divett in the middle and inserted half a wax starter. Let it burn with lid open for 5-10 mins, scattered the lit coals a little bit, then inserted deflector and grate, and closed the lid. Set Billows to 225 via Signals. Left top damper open while it came up to temp. Initial fire was very low, so it took around 20 mins just to creep up to even 150. Here's where things went awry. I reduced the top damper to half so as to slow the rise, but with the fan, it didn't matter. It blew past 200 before I could even close the top more, and then even once I closed it to just barely cracked, it still continued up to 290. Once the fire got going it really got going and couldn't be stopped. Next time I'm going to start with the top damper mostly closed to begin with, and just let it take however long it takes to get up to temp. My fear is that even when the fan on Billows isn't on, it's still going to let too much air in (hence why I got the adjustable plastic thingamabob for it). I have a feeling I'll end up running it with the Billows intake practically shut, which will certainly make the fan work harder, but once it gets to temp, the fan shouldn't have to work too much.
  25. I mounted billows by simply drilling a 1.25” hole in the stock slider. If I don’t want to use billows, I can cover the hole with high-temp tape or a magnet. Havent had time to test it out yet but I’ll do so this weekend and report back. Also - ThermoWorks now sells a plastic damper that you put over top of the fan and you can reduce the cfm, which is probably necessary for the Akorn since the Billows seems like it was built for bigger cookers that need more air. you can also see my Nomex gasket and a little of my copper rtv.
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