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Loremaster72

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Loremaster72 last won the day on July 18

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Bolivar, OH
  • Interests
    Grilling, Books, Antique construction equipment, Lego
  • Grill
    Akorn

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  1. I don't remember the geometry of the area around this, and I'm at work and can't go look at my grill. You could try taking a dremel tool and cutting a slot in the rusted head, then try backing the screws out with a flat head screw driver. I'm not sure if these are sheet metal screws or machine thread screws. If they are sheet metal screws, I'd try to keep the drill out as small as practical, and look at using pop rivets to replace them. You could then replace it again (if needed) by drilling out the pop rivets. If they are blind machine screws (doubtful), I'd try to back them out, maybe even cutting the heads off then using vice-grips to turn out the remaining base. If you do have to drill machine screws out, you could possibly replace them by glueing in some studs, then securing the ring with nuts where the screw heads were. I'll try to look at this area in more detail tonight when I get home, so I can be more definitive with my answer.
  2. Today's cooking: Smothered cabbage with sausage. It's a Rachael Ray recipe I've made before, but this is the first time I tried it on the grill. It's got way more vegetables in it than meat, so that's why I landed it here. I will say that it was slower to cook on the grill than on the stove top, but it's a really tasty dish, and a good way to use up some sausage or ham. I also made some grilled cauliflower. I chopped it into large chunks, coated it with a garlic olive oil, and roasted it on the grill in a cast iron skillet. It's a REALLY tasty way to make cauliflower. Sorry, I forgot to snap a picture of it.
  3. As to restoring old equipment, we do have some good fabricators in our group, as well as a lot of good mechanics. Those older machines are simpler to work on. The hardest problem is usually finding engine and mechanical parts. I do more work organizing their library of manuals and similar stuff. As to photography, you don't start out good. I've been learning for years, and am still only an amateur. I found a great meetup group in my area that is about photography, and I've learned a lot from them on techniques and different ways of looking at things. Like grilling, you get better by doing and seeing what other people do.
  4. Neat, king oyster mushroom is an ingredient I've never seen before. I'll be interested in hearing how your experiments with this turn out in the future. Looks like a great supper!
  5. I'm an avid reader / book collector, and also do photography. My most unusual hobby is that I play with antique construction equipment. I'm a member of the Historical Construction Equipment Association (HCEA.net) and meet with a local chapter about once a week. We restore old machinery and engines. As a side of this, in the summer I frequently go to antique tractor shows, where I take lots of pictures. Here are some snapshots I've taken at recent events:
  6. Hey, it often takes several iterations to come up with a good design. I thought about this hard for some time and ran through a lot of other design concepts before I settled on what I built. Other designs might work better for the tooling that you own, or for the base parts you are starting with, or the ergonomics you want to end up with. I like a loop or rod type handle, you may prefer a knob, or want to reuse some specific handle part you have. There's nothing wrong with thinking a lot about the designs.
  7. If you can't find what you are looking for locally, try McMaster-Carr. You might need to snap a few measurements of the existing fasteners or the holes they went through, but they should have what you are looking for. They have all of the dimensions for the fasteners listed, and even downloadable drawings of them, so you are certain of exactly which dimension is which. You can also get some nylock nuts to prevent the loss of the fasteners in the future. If you really want to go whole-hog, you could upgrade to stainless steel shoulder screws if you wanted to. I ordered a box of stainless steel short hex bolts from them to replace the factory leg mounting screws on my Akorn. Yes, I'm goofy and seeing fasteners rust would have annoyed me.
  8. OK, handle details. I used some 1" dowel for the top bar, and either 1/2" or 5/8" for the vertical members. I drilled shallow (1/8" to 3/16") deep pockets into the ends of the top bar for the verticals to seat into. I drilled completely through the vertical members, which are only around 1" tall, and secured the entire thing to the lid with 2 - 1 1/2" long stainless steel pan head screws. This means that the handle has no glue anywhere, as the screws pass completely through the verticals and bite into the top bar. Drilling the holes through the verticals was a bit tedious, but the holes don't have to be exact and can even be a bit loose. The handle risers are sized (length) to keep the tips of the screw from passing through and out the top to avoid potential hot spots. Stainless steel is a crappy heat conductor, so that should help keep the handle wood from charring, so stainless steel washers could also be added underneath the ends of the verticals, should I notice degradation of the wood.
  9. One other thing I've noticed is that the shape of the fire can make a difference. If you set your charcoal bed in a volcano form, with a clear center passage, the grill is more sensitive to the vent settings, and you generally need smaller openings. If you have a full, dense coal bed, especially if the pieces are smaller (end of bag), the grill seems to need wider damper settings. I don't have evidence, but I would suspect that it will also more susceptible to temperature spiking on long cooks if a clear air path opens up through the coals. Perhaps others can expand on this.
  10. While I haven't heard of anyone's Akorn fading or rusting from the outside, don't forget that if it does, you could easily change the color with some high temp engine enamel paint, if you wanted to.
  11. I have a camp chef 14" cast iron pizza pan that I bought to use as a heat deflector. It fits just fine on the Weber grate resting on the deflector shelves, with plenty of room to spare around it. It would work well on the main cooking grate as well. It has shorter handles than the Lodge, which may or may not be what you are looking for. If you want I'll snap a shot of it on the main cooking grate. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q01WBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. It's going to be slightly hotter down there than up on either the deflector grill grate or the main grate, but the griddle is a lump of cast iron. It shouldn't be damaged by that heat. Getting it up higher might make for an easier access with your grilling tools, and have slightly larger peripheral flow areas, which will reduce the airflow velocity a bit and possibly save some of your arm hair. I think you might have more to worry about with the fire bowl itself, as it isn't used to having downward forces applied to it when up at cooking temperatures.
  13. Well, I just got a Blackstone griddle, and realized that a steamer dome was probably a needed accessory. I looked at the new ones out there and was struck by two things: the price and the fact that all of them were round. Given the rectangular shape of the griddle, I thought that a rectangular steam dome might be a good design. Below you can see pics of the design I came up with. It is based on a 9"x15" steel pan I found at a local thrift store for $1.00. This one was particularly nice in that it has fully rolled edges instead of large flanges, minimizing the unusable space at the contact area with the griddle. The handle is made from some pieces of oak dowel rods I had in the shop, and mounted with two stainless steel screws I had in my hardware boxes. The finish on the handle is Danish Oil (also already in the shop). The finished steamer dome covers not quite half of my 22" Blackstone griddle, and I can even close the lid on the griddle without it hitting the dome handle. I'm quite pleased with how it turned out, and I already used it to steam cook a pizza on a pre-made rectangular crust. If I can find a small 9x9 pan, I'll probably make a similar but smaller cover. That might just get a round knob handle (I tend to re-purpose old Cholula bottle lids into knobs).
  14. Well, I picked up most of the tools I needed to work the griddle over the weekend. On Sunday afternoon some rain moved through, and the temperature dropped enough I could go out and work on the new Blackstone. I got is seasoned with about 5 coats of canola oil. Later cooked some peppers and onions on it for future use, as well as make a pizza on a premade crust for dinner on it. Below is a picture of my grilling setup now. This is going to be fun.
  15. Great find! I love finding good old cookware at flea markets and thrift stores. Many pieces in my kitchen, and much of my cast iron, came that way. The only thing I liked better was finding a 12" cast iron skillet in the recycling dumpster.
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