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Addertooth

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Everything posted by Addertooth

  1. I have had several brands of Kamado grills (Akorn, Kamado Joe, Primo, Kamado K7). They all take a while to cool down, what you describe is normal.
  2. Addertooth

    DIY!

    Mewantkj, I played around with Sous Vide prior to purchasing a proper unit. I used a thermostatically controlled induction heater, but discovered it had an error of a few degrees (easy to compensate for). The other thing which created a problem was the lack of a circulation pump. It required me to move and flip the bag to get even cooking. All of the issues could have been remedied, but it was inexpensive to get an Anova unit. The Anova has been used ever since.
  3. Another Anova fan here. I was an early adopter and have the earliest model. I like how the part of it which rests in the water can be fully disassembled for easy cleaning. If you have a mishap while doing eggs (one crack or breaks), you can easily remove all the egg bits from the mechanism. My favorite thing is to combine it with grilling; sous vide for the cooking, then toss it on a hot grill for searing or browning.
  4. I will be very specific. There is no known brand of Kamado which has a transferable warranty. And I have looked at bunches of brands. The flip side is I have purchased used Kamados at great prices, with the idea if it breaks, I can buy (or fabricate) the parts to repair it. But then, I like tinkering with stuff.
  5. What you showed in the photographs are not worth worrying about. Yes, they occurred while the clay was drying and before it was fired. I would cook with it like it was stolen. Enjoy your new grill with confidence that if they do eventually present a problem KJ will definitely take care of you.
  6. This is tongue in cheek. Two good veggies for the grill: The Hillary and the Bernie. The first is a big gamey, the second is a touch fruity
  7. I started with the Akorn, modded it to turn it into a really precise tool. It definitely got the job done well. The next purchase was a Big Joe, and to be honest, I wish I had just bit the bullet and purchased the Big Joe up front. I started with the Akorn because I was unsure whether the whole "Kamado thing" was as good as people said, and didn't want to tie up a lot of money to find out. Live and learn.
  8. There is already a forum member who is a KK (sponsored) representative. I suspect they will be the first person to showcase this product.
  9. Dennis Linkletter posted some prototype pictures on Facebook. This monster measures 42 inches, making it bigger than the "Big Bad 32", the current flagship of Komodo Kamado. I suspect a suckling pig can definitely be smoked on this grill, without posing it in a curve. For those kids who simply must have the biggest on the block, it looks like this will get the job done. May I suggest "Caldera 42" as a name?
  10. The addition of beer flavor could (at best) be described as "Subtle". They way I make sitting chicken frequently does not involve beer, but rather uses chicken stock and herbs.
  11. Normally, you need the ceramic deflector and some kind of X-shaped rack to support it. I haven't seen enough interior pictures of the Pit Boss to say whether it comes the rack to hold the stone yet. Otherwise, you are tying up your lower grate holding your diffuser stone (giving up real estate).
  12. Totally aside from brands, I like Arrabiata sauce in lieu of Marinara.
  13. Ash does not affect airflow until it rises to the bottom of the lower damper. However, ash plus the moist air in Mississippi equals corrosion of the ash pan, which is usually the first location people complain of corrosion affecting the seal. No harm in removing it with each cook.
  14. By all means, avoid the "Paul McCartney and Wings" effect. Nobody wants a personal performance of "Band on the Run".
  15. As we all know, you can't argue with math. And everyone accepts the formula BRAINS times BEAUTY = (SOME CONSTANT) Pick your poison, and roll with it
  16. As everyone knows here, I love the scientific method. As others have said (with different methods of expression), it is largely the "function" of upper and lower damper positions which determines total air flow. The "Bernoulli principle" of flow is probably the best overall model for determining how much air is moving, but you can web search that to your heart's content. The "Venturi effect" can also come into play, as it creates localized higher velocity flow, with the downside it encourages rapid burning in the center of the coals, at the expense of ignition at the edges. When cooking with a Wok, and the lid is open, then lower damper is the only adjustable factor. As such, the lower damper is the only adjustment which can reasonably influence total air flow and heat (other than rotating the entire Kamado to point the lower damper towards or away from the wind). Keep playing with it, until you feel you have mastered the art and science of precise control. Or, if that isn't your bag, get a stoker. The beauty of Kamados rests in the fact there simply isn't a wrong answer, just an answer you like best. Why did your fire go out? (hint: Venturi effect, but you seem to have a scientific mind, so I will let you work that puzzle)
  17. Just run your wires down the upper damper hole; no need to drill. If you need more length, AmazN products sells probes which are 6 feet in length at a reasonable price for the Maverick thermometers.
  18. Just a shot across the bow, expect to see some humorous postings on April first. I openly invite other regular posters to create a unique (fictional) cooking post for April First; lets have some fun with it!
  19. Maybe not but what about shark or piranhas. They can smell that raw chicken from miles away - go ahead just a drop or two of chicken blood in the water - LOL When Sharks and Piranhas grow opposable thumbs, I am moving to Mars
  20. Picking up, or rolling a heavy ice chest? You are all macho madmen. I have seen a few of these out at the race track. People use them to navigate through the pits, and as a plus, they always have a beer handy. No word on whether you can outrun a bear on one of these bad boys.
  21. The little silver box on the right side certainly looks like a pellet pooper assembly.
  22. Addertooth's semi-scholarly overly-technical treatise follows: Everyone on this forum will agree that Oxygen intake rate drives temperature. The more oxygen coming in, the higher the burn rate of the charcoal, thus more heat is released from the charcoal. Oxygen is a portion of the air coming into the Kamado, along with Nitrogen, Carbon Dioxide, etc. The airflow rate is driven by 5 principal factors: 1. The position of the lower vent (size of gap) 2. The position of the upper vent (size of gap) 3, Size of charcoal chunks and quality of charcoal 4. The speed of any wind that day, and relative position of the lower vent (is it straight towards the vent and thus acting as a scoop, At a right angle to the wind which is essentially neutral, or away from the wind, creating a partial vacuum) 5. The total heat being released by the coals and temperature of the ceramic. Lets discuss 1, 2 and 3 first (mechanical blockage). Airflow is principally dictated by vent positions. Keep in mind it requires both vents to be at least partially open to get good through-and-through flow. If you close either vent, you will never achieve pizza temperatures, even if the other vent is wide open. Adjusting either vent (upper or lower) affects total airflow. For most people, they use the upper vent for fine adjustments, and the lower vent for large adjustments. However, most (but not all) people cannot entirely snuff out the fire by closing only one vent. Think of the vent position pictures posted as a "starting point", besides minor differences in Kamados, there are huge differences in charcoal (even within the same brand sometimes). Small crumbly charcoal tends to block airflow, thus requiring larger vent openings to achieve the expected temperature. Large chunks of high quality charcoal seems to require vents which are more closed to achieve a specific temperature. These mechanical factors determine how much "resistance" air flow encounters while it tries to flow through your grill. Now onto item 4, wind speed and direction. Every hot rod piston head knows the way to get more power out of an engine is a supercharger or turbocharger. As you add more air, you can burn more fuel which creates more power. The same holds true for your Kamado. If your lower vent is facing the wind on a breezy day, it will act as a scoop. The scoop action enhances air flow through the Kamado, which in turn increases the burn rate and the corresponding release of heat. Facing the vent away from the prevailing breeze has the opposite effect. If it is a really windy day, you may wish to have the vent at roughly 90 degrees to the wind, in order to cancel out any scooping or sucking effect. And finally, item 5 which is the amount of total heat energy in your Kamado. When air is heated, the molecules and atom start to vibrate, nudging each other further apart. This makes hot air have fewer atoms per square foot, fewer atoms per square foot makes that air "lighter" than fresh cool air. Because the hot air is lighter, it rises. The hot air rising out of your upper vent creates the flow, which in turn causes fresh cold air to be sucked into the lower vent. Remember, it is this fresh cool air which has the unconsumed Oxygen mixed in with it. The hotter the Kamado is, the higher the flow rate of air is *for any vent position*. This is part of the mechanism for temperature overshoot which some people experience. The novice will get the charcoal going raging hot (they either leave the lid open too long, or light too many spots on the charcoal for a low and slow cook), then wonder why their temperature launches beyond their target temperature. All that extra heat encourages a higher airflow (more oxygen), then they overcompensate by "over-closing" their vents, which as the heat declines, and convection (flow) rates drop, causes airflow to drop precariously low. We end up with the poor newcomer chasing temperatures all over the place, with some of them snuffing the fire out entirely. At Casa Addertooth I use a few very basic rules of thumb. 1. Light the coals in one spot for every hundred degrees you are shooting for (round up) So, 225 (rounded up) is 3 spots, 350 would be 4 spots. 2. Light the charcoal first, perhaps an hour before it is needed, use the hour to go inside and prep the food. 3. Light, Adjust vents to expected position, Add any deflectors you are going to use, then close the lid, let time be your ally. 4. Never ever sweat 25 degrees (unless you are doing something really technical like Crème Brule). Heck, many of the experienced cookers here don't sweat 50 degrees or more. 5. Don't make yourself frantic or worried at any time over temperature, it WILL eventually bend to your will. Give a good 20 minutes between any vent adjustment, make very small adjustments. Grilling and Smoking should be a relaxing experience, being in a hurry to get the fire going can be a major stressor, plan ahead, light early and make small adjustments.
  23. From the official "laziest griller in town", listen to John. Mix in your chunks with the charcoal, light charcoal, add deflectors, close lid, wait until temperature is stable AND you have thin blue smoke, cook ribs. Any additional fuss really isn't worth it, in order to save fifty cents worth of wood chunks. I have seen way too many newcomers make themselves (and others) insane, chasing temperatures.
  24. True to their word, by 12:30 all language stating free delivery is off their website.
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