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HeavyG

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    VA
  • Grill
    Kamado Joe

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  1. One of the advantages of owning a KJ is dealing directly with KJ when you need warranty replacements. I've seen too many complaints from BGE owners over the years who have a dealer that is clueless about or just doesn't want to be bothered with dealing with warranty replacements. With KJ, you deal directly with them and they send you the parts directly to you free of charge. With BGE, assuming you have a dealer that will handle warranty replacements, the dealer will order the replacement part from their regional distributor and the part you need will be included with the dealers next order of BGE stuff. That could be weeks or months before you get the part. Top notch BGE dealers will keep a supply of many parts on hand and will be able to give you one the same day but those dealers are not a commonplace. BGE can send replacement parts directly to the customer but they will charge for shipping (which is probably a bit pricey if you are replacing the base of your XL).
  2. Be interesting to see how Kamado Joe responds to seeing another Chinese factory ripping off its design. Intellectual property theft is an ongoing battle for companies that manufacture in China.
  3. There was a company in NC a decade or so ago that was making nickel plated cast iron skillets. The name was Olvida Cookware. They seem to have disappeared. Wonder if Grizzly is Olvida reincarnated. Griswold used to make nickel plated skillets a century ago. No idea why they stopped. Perhaps because of the allergic reaction some folks have to nickel?
  4. I've seen the Joe Pro (local dealer has one) and the price was only $3K. The shape of the Big Joe III is identical to the new Pro Joe - where the Big Joe was short and squat the Pro/Big Joe III is taller and more slender. That's why I was thinking they might have made scaled versions of the Pro. Beats me. I'm sure we'll hear more about them soon. Kinda surprised at the price for the Big Joe III tho. Big Green Egg redesigned their 2XL and lowered the price to $1999, about half what the old XXL was selling for. The BGE 2XL has a 29" grid which is much larger than the Big Joe or Pro.
  5. I'm guessing they decided to rename the new Joe Pro to Big Joe III??? Looks like the Classic III is also a scaled down Pro Joe. This highlights one thing that is a pet peeve of mine - when manufacturers don't keep their websites updated and we see new items on vendor sites first.
  6. Looks nice! One thing you might keep an eye on is that any of those knives that are not stainless steel blades will likely be exposed to more water vapor being right above the stove. Probably want to make sure you keep them lightly oiled to lessen the chances of them developing rust spots.
  7. Programs like Nutrisystem work (at least temporarily) for many people because if you stick to the program rigidly one is eating fixed portions of known caloric amounts. Reducing caloric intake is key to any attempt to lose weight. The vast majority of people cannot exercise their way out of obesity. Certainly exercise is important for all people and folks who are obese will derive great benefit form increased movement (even if their calorie burn is not substantial), however, if one is obese due to overeating most folks are not going to have enough free hours in the day for exercise to have any significant impact on loosing weight. This has been known for some time but far too many people still seem to think that just walking around the block after dinner will burn off that ice cream they had for dessert. A recent article talks about this: https://www.cnn.com/2019/01/04/health/diet-exercise-weight-loss/index.html?sr=twCNN010419diet-exercise-weight-loss0600PMVODtop Very low carb diets may have drawbacks for many people but to say they are necessarily harmful is wrong. Many cultures, such as the Inuit, eat an essentially zero carb diet most months of the year. They have successfully done so for many thousands of years. The average US citizen does consume more than folks in most other countries but to say consume double the amount of an average European is just not what the data shows. In any case, their are many ways to approach what a person should eat and some diets may work better than others for some folks. One just has to find an approach/plan that they can sustain in the long run. Personally, I agree with Michael Pollan - “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”
  8. @psych - for folks not looking to gain a more smokey taste from the charcoal itself I suggest you look at Rockwood. It is probably the most neutral "flavor" of charcoal available. It is more neutral (less smokey) because it is fired to a higher degree of carbonization than other brands. That means there are lesser amounts of the volatile organic compounds to burn off while cooking. It used to have somewhat limited regional availability but it is now available nationwide thru Ace Hardware stores. It may also be carried by independent stores and you can check their website for dealers nearby. If there are no Ace Hardware stores in your area you can order it from their website.
  9. That's the sort of question which often leads to fistfights. I'm usually stocked with a few bags each of Royal Oak, Kamado Joe, and Rockwood. Lot's of brands out there and I haven't tried them all so I'm sure other folks will list some others as "the best".
  10. Spatchcocking would probably be too wide but cut into halves you might be able to arrange them to fit.
  11. You might want to buy some of the expandable (pleated) vac seal bags meant for large things like a full brisket or a turkey. Here's a link to the ones FoodSaver sells - https://www.amazon.com/Foodsaver-GameSaver-Expandable-Vacuum-2-Pack/dp/B00AL2AV2O
  12. I don't think I've seen a chamber vac large enough to deal with a full packer brisket. Wonder how much one that size might cost!
  13. If a $40 stone isn't worthy of your pricier blades you can always buy a natural Japanese stone. Here's a link to a dealer for natural stones. Most of them are over $1000 but there might be something for a bit less. - http://www.thejapanstone.com/A_New_Hoard_Bench.html For Japanese knives fixed angle systems such as the Wicked Edge really aren't ideal. Most quality Japanese knives are originally hand sharpened and thus they don't really have an exact bevel angle. The blade makers might say that their edge bevel may be 10° or 15° or whatever but because they are sharpened by humans they can/will vary by a degree or two on the same blade and between blades. And there are actually advantages to that. One advantage is that being hand sharpened the edge bevel will have a rounded or slightly tapered shoulder. Sharpening with a fixed angle system does not allow one to do that. A system such as the Wicked Edge will also not allow one to thin a blade - to do that you'll need to freehand on a stone. Of course for thinning you don't need a $1000 dollar natural stone. All systems have their pros and cons and the Wicked Edge is pretty slick. For folks that insist on setting an exact angle for primary and secondary bevels for at least some of their knives then a system like the Wicked Edge may be the ticket. Looking forward to your experiences with it.
  14. This is a topic that has been much discussed/debated over the years. A lot of variables are involved but one thing is crystal clear - an air gap of an inch or so between the base of a kamado and the surface of a flammable material is the safest approach to lessening the chance of a wooden table catching fire. Concrete conducts heat very well. There are a lot of types of concrete and some conduct heat better than others. Over on another forum many moons ago regarding this subject one commenter said: "According to Fourier's law of heat transfer, air is substantially better at dissipating heat than concrete. there is an equation, if your interested I can share it, but when you do the math I would take about a 12" block of concrete to provide the same heat transfer rate that air gives you. So, like golf we want to see a low number in heat transfer rate. I guess I should say I assumed a 2" air gap which is about what the table nest gives us, a 12x12 paver (larger would be worse), a 70 degree day, and the bottom of the egg at 350 degrees. with all of that, heat transfers through concrete about 70 times faster than air. I know people on here love stainless steel, so for fun I ran it and heat transfers though that about 385 times faster. So to sum it up, using the table nest is the safest way to rest your egg in your table." When dealing with something like a kamado resting on a concrete "paver" the heat transfer is a case of steady state conduction, meaning the heat just keeps flowing and flowing. Given the nature of many cooks on a kamado with 10 hour+ cooks not being unusual those effects tend to add up. Again, there are a lot of variables involved - the type of concrete the "paver" is made from, the type of wood the table is made from, the type of finish that is applied to the surface of the wood, the amount of energy in the kamado, etc., etc., etc. The amount of energy in the kamado varies from a fairly low level of energy if one is smoking a butt at 225°F to a higher amount of energy if one is doing pizzas. More energy means more heat available to transfer thru air, concrete, whatever. Here's a pix of a wood surface that had a concrete patio "paver" underneath the kamado: An air gap by itself may not always be sufficient to ensure that a wood surface will not scorch and possibly ignite. I have seen pix of slight scorching from someone that was just using a BGE Table Nest (couldn't find the pix yet tho). Below is a pix of a table directly supporting an Egg and the burn thru is obvious. The middle pic is of a table sitting upon a concrete "paver" which was not the reason the table caught fire but rather was a case of an insufficient air gap around the circumference of the Egg in the tabletop opening (I have seen a few similar photos where the Egg sits snug in the opening and burns the table). The bottom pix is of a table that has been scorched a bit even tho the kamado was sitting on a concrete "paver" (tho it looks to me like the damage may just be to whatever finish the builder used to "protect" the wood from rotting). The bottom line is that wood is not the best material to use in constructing a table to hold some types of grills. The idea that a typical concrete square bought at Home Depot or the like is going to be sufficient to ensure a wooden table won't catch fire is poppycock. Yes, some folks do that and never seem to have a problem (until they do of course). Others have actually had their tables burn and most of their deck burn with it. If I were to use a table for a kamado made from wood and I was resting the kamado on a concrete "paver" I would at least periodically (once a year?) lift up the kamado and remove the "paver" to inspect the surface of the wood to see what may be going on.
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