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About Jkomodo

  • Birthday March 27

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  • Location:
    New york
  • Grill
    Other Kamado

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  1. Great advice here folks! Thanks for chiming in. After doing some research on the HeaterMeter I’m looking at anywhere between $200-$250 on the device parts all-in and another $10K on a computer engineering degree. Lol This is not meant to be an insult but I have a hard time spending that much on a device I’ll have to put together. That said, the finished product looks very impressive and kudos to you, T-Yelta for constructing one. Drunken meatfist, you’ve already scored points in my book for your name lol. The PartyQ recommendation is a good one. I’m curious why the need for thermoworks smoke? Just to have a probe in the meat as well as the smoker? The PartyQ will adjust the airflow based on smoker temp so there’s a probe within the smoker correct? I have restored Kamado Company smoker that leverages a drawer style air intake on the bottom of the unit. Trying to envision how I could go about jimmy rigging the temp controller hose/fan. Again, great feedback everyone. Much appreciated!
  2. Struggling with this one... I love using my Kamado for low & slow cooks however with two young kids I struggle to find the time. I’m trying to determine the best approach for a “set it & forget it” option. I am looking to either purchase a temp controller such as an iKamand that I will have to figure out how to rig to my old school Kamado Co. or just bite the bullet and purchase a pellet smoker. The way I see it, one of these controller’s is going to run me $250. Maybe I’m better off dropping another few hundred and getting a pellet set up considering the application will be primarily for low & slow smoking. Any suggestions on the preferred option? If you’re leaning towards the pellet smoker option, any recommendations? My top 3 based solely on internet research is Rec Tec, Traeger and Grilla. Thanks for your feedback! -J
  3. Looking to purchase a used large big green egg hinge assembly for an old model. Thanks for reading. Jay
  4. Would anyone here know where I may be able to find the hinge assembly for a large big green egg? The shell is in good shape but the hinge, bands and firebox have seen better days. I would rather purchase used vs buy new if anyone has an old one laying around. Thanks for reading! - J
  5. Hi There, I'm in search of some parts for a large BGE. Specifically the belly band hinge system. I'm attempting to bring some new life to an old BGE so I'll take any parts I can get as the hardware on this kamado is in rough shape but the shell is pristine. Thanks for taking the time to read. Please let me know if you have any questions. - Jeremy
  6. Hi Everyone, Was hoping you may be able to give me some pointers. I recently order a "tip top temp" temperature controller for my Kamado Company K5 smoker. My first question is - has anyone ever modified one of these to fit a k5? The only post I found online involved drilling in to the cement which I would hope to avoid if possible. My second question pertains to lighting. In doing some research I found that most folks that use this temp controller avoid lighting all briquettes in an effort to avoid over shooting the targeted temp. Wouldn't your food taste like briquettes then? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading. - J
  7. I think the sweat equity paid off. Thanks so much to everyone on here that was able to help me. Especially Theojt – who was nice enough to send me a few left over tiles for my upper damper. I hope you feel they were put to good use. Just a quick run down of some of the item’s I addressed and some things I’ve learned along the way that I hope helps others. · Wire brush drill attachment worked well to remove the old ash and grit – suggest doing this outside while wearing a mask. Dust was everywhere. · Original firebox crumbled in to ash like a vampire in daylight. I found a local guy here in NY who was able to sell me a new earthenware firebox along with a heat deflector and pizza stone all for $120. Unfortunately all of these items were too big so I had to carefully grind away the perimeter’s in order to make them work. (Prior posts illustrate the modifications I had to make in order to fit) · Used a dremel to widen cracks and rub in high heat DAP mortar. Ratchet straps were used in order to tighten the cracks after application. (thanks Addertooth) · Removed the hinge assembly and spray painted black with high heat rustoleum. · Removed the springs and dipped in “plasti-dip” to prevent the chalkboard sound of metal scratching against metal. · With the top dome off I was able to use the wire brush attachment on the upper damper threads. this worked well and allowed me to remove it in order to re-tile. · Applied the tiles with high heat mortar. Realized there was no way I was going to make the top look decent with whole tiles so I cracked a couple and went with a mosaic style on top. Thanks again to all of the folks out there that helped me through this. More than a few times I doubted myself and felt I bit off more than I could chew. Had it not been for this site I don’t think I would have been nearly as successful.
  8. Addertooth, do you think these ceramic feet would be able to support the weight of a k5? If so would it be necessary to use more than 3?
  9. Also Addertooth, took your advice and removed the cart system. I have a feeling it promoted the cracks I will soon be dealing with. If anyone out there wants it, let me know. Perhaps it can be rigged so that the weight is distributed evenly. I plan on tossing it.
  10. Gentlemen, worked like a charm. Thanks! Unfortunately the firebox is going to be a hair to small. It appears to be going a little lower than the lip that was designed to hold it up. Do u suggest (A)grinding a little bit off of the sides allowing it to slide all the way the bottom so that the bottom of the firebox will rest on the floor of the interior? or ( using paver stones or bricks to raise it up so that it is elevated from the bottom by a few inches? I'm not sure if you want it to be elevated for air flow and so ash can be dispersed on the bottom as opposed to funneling to one condensed area at the bottom of the fire box. Here are some pics illustrating my victory/new dilemma.
  11. I recently purchased an imperial firebox that will fit my k5. Unfortunately some minor modifications will be needed in order for it to slide all the way to the bottom. I plan on on cutting a block of the fire box off of the side of the cut out where the lower draft arms protrude from the interior. Hopefully the picture will help illustrate what I'm trying to do. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding the tool or blade that would successfully remove this piece without cracking the fire box. Thanks for reading. - J
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