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Found 14 results

  1. news330

    Vision Table - So excited

    My very first woodworking project so it had to be a table for my Vision. Almost lost a thumb making it (rookie lack of respect for the table saw), but it was totally worth it! Unveiled it in time for a Thanksgiving turkey smoke. Might be my imagination, but that turkey tasted even better than past years before I had this table All cedar, but was able to get darker colored cedar for the posts so it has nice color contrast. Cherry stain for everything except the black on the cupboard doors. Found the granite for the top for $5 in my neighborhood (a minor miracle). Favorite item is the Rev-a-Shelf two drawer slider.
  2. So I've acquired a freestanding Joe and plan on bulding a combo table for it and the Junior. As mentioned in the subject, will terracotta feet be substantial enough for the 250 lb BJ? I'm not against using several around the circumference if needed.
  3. KamadoKarma

    GrillZilla

    While not completely done, it's getting close. The only material we bought was Douglas Fir 4x4's for the frame and some outdoor hardware. Almost everything else was 1/2",3/4", and 1" pallet wood. It was some good stuff too like oak, cherry, heart pine. I kept the rack from my old smoker and used it to hold the soap stone, grill grates, divider, and accessories rack from the KJ. I didn't mount the KJ inside the table because I wanted to roll it out from under the awning when we're blasting the coals for pizza and searing. I have perforated steel boxes that I setup for hot items. I'ts been beaten and torched, planed, and sanded.... I still need to stain and seal the wood then we should be in business.
  4. enormous13

    Vision Classic B Table Build

    Hey Everybody, I just finished up a DIY table for my Vision Grills Classic B Kamado and I figured I'd post it for anyone else who's looking for a table build for their Vision. I did quite a bit of searching before I started this project, and I had a hard time finding anything customized for the Vision. The plans I based this build off of come from Naked Whiz's site: http://www.nakedwhiz.com/tableplans/tableplans.htm . Thanks to him for giving out great info. This build seemed easy to me and gave me a great work space that I had been lacking with the Vision cart and fold-up side tables. First things first, a few very important aspects I changed from the plans are: Using 4x4 lumber for the legs and Using 2x4 lumber for all of the framing and bracing. (All the decking is just 1x6) I'm kind of surprised that people build these tables out of "1 by" dimensional lumber, including the legs sometimes. So I wanted to make this thing beeeeefy. With the changes in the lumber used to build this thing, we divert from the plans quite a bit, but the plans are a great starting point and theory to follow. (Note: All of the lumber I used was pressure treated - the wood with the green stuff on it - from Home Depot. Pressure treated lumber stands up better to exterior use than non-treated lumber, and was much cheaper for me than a wood species such as Cedar. I probably spent about $60 on the wood, total. For those wondering, this whole build easily cost me less than $150 - $35 of that being the stain/seal) For the top and bottom frames, here are some of the measurements I used (instead of what was on the plans): 2x4's for length of table - 57" All 2x4's for width - 25" The added length and width was to accommodate the bigger Vision (22.5" Diam.) vs the BGE Large (21" Diam.) and to squeeze in larger lumber. These measurements are on the attached PDF file for all of our visual learners. A lot of the other measurements are "plug" numbers really, just make sure you'll have room for the circle you'll cut on the top. My circle is 22.5" to 23" Diameter depending where you measure and it's snug, but dead center front to back and side to side (based on the framing for that portion of the table). Another number that needs to be changed is the "Dimension X" figure, which is the distance between the top of the upper deck and the top of the lower deck. For the pavers I used, I set my Dimension X at 16". and it's almost perfect. This is obviously a number you can measure for and adjust, just make sure your table is level in the end. I had dimensions in mind when I built the table so that I could easily find a cover for it (Approx. 58"x28"). The table is just a tad smaller than the XL BGE table, so there's plenty of covers for it, but no way was I paying for the BGE brand cover. Amazon for the win, here's a link to a cover that I feel is pretty robust and will last at least 5 years in the direct Florida sun: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZZI1E4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Another small touch I added was to get a nomex roll and line the inside of the cutout on the table top (see final pic). Just in case, so the wood doesn't scorch and it's some added bump protection for the grill. Here's the one I got from, again, Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAG2AV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The inset tile on the table top is for placing down hot items, such as an Adjustable Rig from the Ceramic Grill Store (which I'll soon hopefully "acquire"). It's 18"x18" and porcelain, which will stand up to the heat, and it cost me all of $2. If you want to get real fancy, get yourself a scrap piece of granite at a local stone supplier and have them cut it down to spec for you (anticipate about a $50 cost - if you can do better, well then good for you!). The plans call for framing it out and adding 1" cleats around the edges to support it. I felt that wasn't adequate support for the middle and added a 2x4 going straight through the middle of the opening (see rough finish pic), then added cleats at opposite ends. I'm not worried at all anymore if this opening could support something, I actually had the whole grill on top of the tile while I stained/sealed the table. Risky? Nah. The large paver under the grill is a 24"x24" paver from my local Home Depot. Easy to acquire and cost like $5. The smaller bricks under the grill are to provide adequate airflow so that there's negligible heat transfer to the large paver and then to the wood on the table. I've read about guys pulling up their paver and the wood is scorched under it since the grill was directly on it. I also noticed the felt on my Vision cart that was under the grill was a tad scorched when I pulled the grill out. Now, there's a few kamado makers out there like Kamado Joe, Primo and BGE who make "feet" for their grills. I looked around for these, and while they are specifically made for this purpose, no way was I paying $30-$40 for a set of 4 feet. Instead, I grabbed me four 1.25" thick pavers (I believe they are 4"x8") while at Home Depot for a whopping total of......$1.50. Now, one of the more expensive parts of this build was the stain and seal, only because I had to buy a whole gallon of it when I needed maybe a quart. I will totally use the rest on some other builds I have coming up for exterior furniture. I found some stuff made by Thompson's that works with pressure treated lumber, and was in stock at my Home Depot. They make a few colors, and I went with the walnut. I anticipated that the stain would be much darker than it was, but I'm thinking the wood still hadn't "dried out" completely from all the treatment liquids, thus not letting the Thompson's really set in and provide the dark color I was going for. Still though, I do like the color and the protection is nice, even though I'll have it covered. Here's a link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Thompson-s-WaterSeal-1-gal-Natural-Penetrating-Timber-Oil-TH-049801-16/206023511 . I intended to add wheels to this build so that I could easily move the table around, and I'll get to it in the future. Right now it came down to cost and a struggle I had with how to install the wheels. I originally wanted to buy four pneumatic casters between 8" and 10" (two swivel and two fixed). Best price I could find for some decently rated wheels...about $30...each! (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VTAP76/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002VTAP76&pd_rd_r=9427Z1Z9NH3ZQ7QH0ZM6&pd_rd_w=0ZltW&pd_rd_wg=xGbzA&psc=1&refRID=9427Z1Z9NH3ZQ7QH0ZM6) So we're looking at more for the wheels than the whole table...reminds of those ghetto gunships with the huge rims that roll down MLK boulevard down here...funny joke, don't get offended so easily, they're just words, rub some dirt on it. Anyways, with those casters, I was worried that by screwing them into the ends of the 4x4 lumber, that the screws wouldn't have much "support" with the wood grain coming straight on, instead of sideways. Screw grabbing power is much different depending on (hold on tight, crazy words ahead) parallel vs. perpendicular wood grain. Not to mention, the table must weigh almost 400lbs with everything loaded on. So I'll work on how to get some wheels on this thing in the future. For the joinery, I used my Kreg HD kit, which is made for 2x4 and 4x4 pocket hole joinery. A regular Kreg Jig won't be able to accomodate the larger lumber. I also used the Kreg HD screws since they are coated for exterior use. On some of the bracing and where the bottom level attaches to the 4x4, I employed some 3.5" deck screws from Home Depot. This thing is bombproof, and I probably went way overboard, but I feel safe knowing that my grill "ain't goin nowhere". Kreg links: Kreg HD - https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Tool-Company-KJHD-Jig/dp/B008CQ59GY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477000077&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+hd (you'll need a Kreg face clamp as well for this thing to work. The face clamp comes in handy for a bunch of other projects.) HD Screws - https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Tool-Company-SML-C2X250-125-Pocket/dp/B008CQBYGI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1477000077&sr=8-4&keywords=kreg+hd I'm sure I left something out here, and I'm sure someone will remind me, but I hope that this write up can at least help somebody. I know I was grasping at air when I first started looking for plans to build myself. Here's to the table's maiden voyage tonight with a brisket! Happy Cooking Everyone Table Schem.10202016.pdf
  5. dvalle07

    Akorn table build

    Hi Guys, So I've been following a lot of guys on here and got inspired to build a table for my Akorn, I'm not a work worker by any stretch but I have learned a lot along the way. I'm almost done with the build. July 5th will be the day I complete it. I used white pine on most of it totaling in $170 in wood alone. (All from the lumber yard) about $70 in hardware/Stain,prep etc.. It was supposed to be a simple build but as I went along I kept changing and adding as I went. Hope you guys like it. Stain I used which Im not entirely happy with is Thompson water Seal Natural Cedar tone. (The pigment was hard to lay down- steaks, darker areas) Added slots in the 2x4 so the Akron flanges can rest flush and secure Now for the Test Fit! Looking good! I really wanted to add doors but wast sure how to keep GOOD airflow while smoking low and slow So....Im cane up with screens! Added a frame the stapled the screen to the inside of the frame and then screwed in for a clean look. So far so good. Going to be adding led light inside and adding the hooks and Akorn and she'll be done!
  6. Decided I didn't want to bend to cook. Took off to lowes and bought $150 worth of cedar wood and screws. Got the basics from the web and changed the design just a bit to fit my patio. I've never built a table and will never do it again. But 5 hrs later.
  7. MonteM

    Custom Made Accessories

    Wanted to get y'all's thoughts... I have a Vision M Series - Modified - The Sam's Combo unit, that has the gas grill/searing unit on one side, Kamado on the other...it is the Vision M Series, but it is a slightly modified version, so std M series accessories are said to not fit. Ticks me off, but I'm a Marine...I adapt and overcome...Hahaha I have .050" stainless steel readily available at no cost, and an ornamental metal fab shop that shears/punches/etc things for me at a decent price. I'm thinking of having the pieces in the images made for me - the size SS plates I have available are 10" x 34ish"...I am thinking of having the shop shear some 1" wide pieces and break press them into the shapes I need, then weld them dead center to create 2 different height plate holders...then also having them shear and weld 2 pieces together to make a deflector like shown... Thoughts? Y'all have a lot more experience with all of this than I do... Also, I saw somewhere, might have been here, that someone took their charcoal grate out and used a SS basket like the one in the pic (sans handle, it comes detached and will go in the junk drawer so my wife can ask me eleventy million times why I kept it) for ease in cleanup etc...I already have one of the baskets and it fits pretty nice, less than an inch from the ceramic to the basket all the way around...Or would it better to just keep the cast iron piece in there? This seems like it would allow a lot better airflow...the one issue I have with the Kamado part of this set-up, is that the bottom air vent is "within" the table, so air movement is minimal...(see image)...is this a normal airflow deal with Kamado tables? Thanks, all!! M
  8. wallawu

    Deck vs. Patio

    This is probably a project that will be at least 6 months away, but right now I have a back deck that's falling apart. As in, can't put the chair legs in certain spots because it could go through the existing hole, or form a new one. I've replaced a few boards that have rotted out, but now even the railing is going south. It was the existing deck with the house, so I imagine its a few decades old. Painted brown . It's about 3 feet off of the ground, and you step out right on to the deck. This thing is coming down, and I want to know from those of you that have had them built, which is more enjoyable/cost friendly/rewarding a deck or a patio? If a deck, would you keep it elevated, or build steps that come down to a deck that doesn't need railing? If a patio, should it be cement, or gravel and pavers? At this point I think rock would be too expensive, so that's not an option. I see a patio being a little bit more versatile (partly covered, water-friendly), and you can add on to it little by little (light fixtures, fans, appliances, etc), and the surface wouldn't need the maintenance that a deck does. I'd also have more privacy from the fence since we'd be at ground level. When it comes down to it, I'd like something that looks nice, but won't make me bleed green. I don't care to have a screened-in anything either. What do yall think?
  9. TrevP

    Cedar BBQ workstation

    Last year we bought a Kamado BBQ and I was never happy with the cheap metal stand it came with so I decided to build a cedar workstation this spring. Did a lot of looking around on the net for ideas and settled on my version of the cypress table that Primo sells. Mine has swivelling casters and an under table slide out charcoal storage bin (the black bins at IKEA are fantastic for this). I'm going to add an electrical outlet to the table so I can plug in my heat gun and also add either a stainless rail for utensil storage or some other kind of attractive hooks for that. I despise seeing screw heads so everything was pocket drilled and glued. Final sealing was Thompsons Water Seal Advanced in Honey Gold. Dimensions are: Table Top: 60" X 38.5" Cart: 48" X 27.5" X 38"
  10. After seeing a picture of the cart that the Home Depot version of the Akorn came with, I decided that I wanted to make my own version. I wanted to stick to the same size, so that I could use the Char Griller cover that is made for it. I went to Home Depot with a tape measure, pad and paper to get some dimensions. While measuring, I noticed a possible issue. That grill sticks out a few inches from the cart on the left side. Theirs has holes drilled below the handle and the hinge to bracket it to the cart. Mine just has the three legs, so no holes in the center. Since I am stubborn and had it in my head to do it, I decided that I would eventually figure out a way to brace/support it and was going to go ahead and build it any way. One benefit is that I would still be able to use the fold down shelf on the left side for more work space. I wanted to use pallet wood, because I like the rustic look that used pallet wood has, especially for outdoor projects... And of course, because it's free . If I screwed it up too bad, I was only out some screws and nails. I was going to use the axel/wheels from the original grill stand, and was careful no to alter the original grill/stand in any way, in case this idea didn't work out. I could always just put the three legs back on. So I started the project on Friday, and made the top and cut out the hole for the grill. As you can see, the left side is open: Saturday, made the legs and the lower shelf with my two assistants: Since I was working on something for the grill, I figured that I might as well use it, and made some yummy ribs For the right side, I used two L Brackets on the shelf mounting holes, and I ended up using two of the rear leg holes for brackets for the back support: And attached the front left side with a bracket from the screw holes there: While the grill is rock solid in the cart and doesn't move at all, I'm not sure I like the look of that support. I am going to try to figure out a way to support that left shelf bracket to the table. Maybe run a short post down to that wood brace that goes across. Here it is with the left shelf flipped down: And the shelf up, with added bottle opener, and some grill stuff stored below: (my little vertical cabinet smoker on the left is sad, as he knows that his days in the back yard are numbered) I do want to stain it at some point... looking at like a dark walnut to give it that aged wood look. The cover should be delivered today or tomorrow, so I can put it on and make sure everything fits.
  11. I placed an order for a standalone Black Big Joe with Stainless bands this past weekend and with any luck it's supposed to arrive within 4 weeks (aka "2-3" KJ weeks). I had recently moved the Joe Junior to a new spot and today had to move everything again in preparation. Because the weather was nice, I took the opportunity to knock together a little stand on which the Big Joe will live for the Winter. All 2x4 construction consisting of scraps and odds and ends I had lying around after a number of other projects. I'm not concerned with longevity of this stand beyond next spring, so you'll notice the majority is spruce, not pressure treated - and I didn't even use weather-proof screws. That said, you can park a car on it without worries. Next Spring a permanent home befitting these nice grills will be constructed where the gasser sits now in the background. Big Joe will sit on its feet on top of the concrete patio slab on the left. The right side is a table top for putting down utensils, plates, etc. while cooking. I'm going to cover the sides under the slab to prevent that area getting full of snow - it's where I'll probably place grill parts I'm not using for the current cook. You can see my two dogs checking out the stand - little do they know, but I'm going to be spraying around the base with a cayenne pepper solution.
  12. This is a fairly recent episode from Good Eats where Alton talks about the history of barbecue, wood chemistry, modifying a gasser...and more. Runs about 40 minutes.
  13. Thought I'd try my hand at a bit of carpentry here in the UK building a table out of hardwood (oak). I'm not a skilled carpenter but I'm pretty pleased with the result. This is largely based on the naked whiz design. Used all oak wood (mainly 4x1" with 4x2" legs), I picked up a couple of stones (60cm square slate below kamado and 40cm square limestone for worktop) and oiled it with a natural finish - as much as I could. The cutout for the Kamado Joe Classic is just 22" which only really leaves about 0.5" clearance - I'm pretty sure this is enough as it's just got to allow for convection heat airflow as radiated heat should be minimal. It's a surprising amount of work. I've now ordered a BGE embroidered slatted table cover to keep it looking lovely. I'm hoping that this doesn't come with the BGE logo!!
  14. Greeting Gurus! My husband and I had a crack in our Vision Classic B base and will be receiving a new one from Vision soon. To see photos and read about this topic see this thread: Crack in Our Vision Base Now to replace the base. The Vision Warehouse Manager, Bob, said that this is definitely a two person job and hinted that it's not necessarily an easy one. Already, folks have started posting tips and tricks, on my other thread, for how one would carry out this daunting task. So... Has anyone done this before? If so, how did it go? Any things to consider before hand? Resources, videos, how tos, tools, safety precautions? Also, any creative ideas for what to use the old base for? As always, thanks so much for your responses! Grillin' Canuck
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