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  1. I am looking for a table to house my Classic 2 and provide basic shelves/storage but nothing too elaborate. I live in New England so am looking for something that can survive 4 seasons. Recommendations appreciated!
  2. Thanks to @Kamadobjorn for the inspiration. The table is the “Applaro” Line. The hardware that you see in the last pictures all came from Hobby Lobby. The table comes with a thin, cheap pull bar and nothing else, not even knobs for the doors. The cooler pic is just for reference as that was what I was doing prior to getting the table. The last pic is sans hardware just the way it comes from IKEA. I used Lenox 18TPI metal jigsaw blades with an adjustable speed jigsaw set to its lowest setting to cut the hole. I used this edge trim from Amazon: Trim If you have any other questions just ask. Cheers.
  3. After seeing a picture of the cart that the Home Depot version of the Akorn came with, I decided that I wanted to make my own version. I wanted to stick to the same size, so that I could use the Char Griller cover that is made for it. I went to Home Depot with a tape measure, pad and paper to get some dimensions. While measuring, I noticed a possible issue. That grill sticks out a few inches from the cart on the left side. Theirs has holes drilled below the handle and the hinge to bracket it to the cart. Mine just has the three legs, so no holes in the center. Since I am stubborn and had it in my head to do it, I decided that I would eventually figure out a way to brace/support it and was going to go ahead and build it any way. One benefit is that I would still be able to use the fold down shelf on the left side for more work space. I wanted to use pallet wood, because I like the rustic look that used pallet wood has, especially for outdoor projects... And of course, because it's free . If I screwed it up too bad, I was only out some screws and nails. I was going to use the axel/wheels from the original grill stand, and was careful no to alter the original grill/stand in any way, in case this idea didn't work out. I could always just put the three legs back on. So I started the project on Friday, and made the top and cut out the hole for the grill. As you can see, the left side is open: Saturday, made the legs and the lower shelf with my two assistants: Since I was working on something for the grill, I figured that I might as well use it, and made some yummy ribs For the right side, I used two L Brackets on the shelf mounting holes, and I ended up using two of the rear leg holes for brackets for the back support: And attached the front left side with a bracket from the screw holes there: While the grill is rock solid in the cart and doesn't move at all, I'm not sure I like the look of that support. I am going to try to figure out a way to support that left shelf bracket to the table. Maybe run a short post down to that wood brace that goes across. Here it is with the left shelf flipped down: And the shelf up, with added bottle opener, and some grill stuff stored below: (my little vertical cabinet smoker on the left is sad, as he knows that his days in the back yard are numbered) I do want to stain it at some point... looking at like a dark walnut to give it that aged wood look. The cover should be delivered today or tomorrow, so I can put it on and make sure everything fits.
  4. Had a few people who follow my Instagram ask for more information on the table shown in some of my pictures. This is the cedar table work station I built to house my large and minimax big green eggs so far pretty happy with it
  5. The kj cart that was talked about months ago appears to be available now https://www.instagram.com/p/Bjk2eqznTpB/?hl=en Here's the product link in cdn dollars https://dicksonbbq.com/products/modular-cart-for-classic-joe
  6. Hello! New to the forum, and wanted to share something I did with those that may be interested. First thing I noticed is that tables and carts for Kamado grills are not cheap. I did some hunting around online and found a stainless table I liked for a good price, Kamado Joe's KJ-SST, only to then learn it would not fit the Classic II because of the new air lift hinge. Well, I wasn't giving up yet, as I felt there had to be a way to make this work. I found measurements for the table and began brainstorming. My first thoughts were to cut slits in the rear of the table to allow the hinge frame to fit since it didn't need a ton of clearance to begin with, but decided even though I wouldn't of had to cut all the way through the rear of the table, it still would of been weak, and the table is open in the rear below the table top. Started looking at the hinge, and noticed there is a lot of excessive material in the black frame. After feeling good about my measurements, I decided to order the table. I took some final measurements once the table arrived, and determined where I would need to cut the hinge frame to keep the grill pretty much centered and 1 inch off the bottom for airflow. I took the plunge and cut out my measured sections of the hinge frame with a hacksaw, then filed sanded and repainted the edges. Overall went very well, and the pieces I removed from the frame had zero affect on the hinge performance or strength. I have included pictures of the results, and can regather measurements to those that may be interested in doing the same. I bought the table on Amazon for $399, which is a great deal compared to prices of other tables, and wanted to let others know this can be done. Best addition to my KJ Classic II so far. Happy grilling!
  7. So I've acquired a freestanding Joe and plan on bulding a combo table for it and the Junior. As mentioned in the subject, will terracotta feet be substantial enough for the 250 lb BJ? I'm not against using several around the circumference if needed.
  8. Finally finished my Primo XL table. It's built out of pine and has 2in concrete counter top for plenty of space. It rides on 6 casters w/brakes. It will be parked in my garage and never be left out in the elements (at least on purpose...) It has 4 slide out racks that will hold charcoal, utensils, and extras for the XL
  9. Just wanted showcase my new Table for the KJ Classic. This is not a paid endorsement but the quality and price for this table were hard to beat!! https://woodbydana.com/product-category/tables/
  10. While not completely done, it's getting close. The only material we bought was Douglas Fir 4x4's for the frame and some outdoor hardware. Almost everything else was 1/2",3/4", and 1" pallet wood. It was some good stuff too like oak, cherry, heart pine. I kept the rack from my old smoker and used it to hold the soap stone, grill grates, divider, and accessories rack from the KJ. I didn't mount the KJ inside the table because I wanted to roll it out from under the awning when we're blasting the coals for pizza and searing. I have perforated steel boxes that I setup for hot items. I'ts been beaten and torched, planed, and sanded.... I still need to stain and seal the wood then we should be in business.
  11. Hey Everybody, I just finished up a DIY table for my Vision Grills Classic B Kamado and I figured I'd post it for anyone else who's looking for a table build for their Vision. I did quite a bit of searching before I started this project, and I had a hard time finding anything customized for the Vision. The plans I based this build off of come from Naked Whiz's site: http://www.nakedwhiz.com/tableplans/tableplans.htm . Thanks to him for giving out great info. This build seemed easy to me and gave me a great work space that I had been lacking with the Vision cart and fold-up side tables. First things first, a few very important aspects I changed from the plans are: Using 4x4 lumber for the legs and Using 2x4 lumber for all of the framing and bracing. (All the decking is just 1x6) I'm kind of surprised that people build these tables out of "1 by" dimensional lumber, including the legs sometimes. So I wanted to make this thing beeeeefy. With the changes in the lumber used to build this thing, we divert from the plans quite a bit, but the plans are a great starting point and theory to follow. (Note: All of the lumber I used was pressure treated - the wood with the green stuff on it - from Home Depot. Pressure treated lumber stands up better to exterior use than non-treated lumber, and was much cheaper for me than a wood species such as Cedar. I probably spent about $60 on the wood, total. For those wondering, this whole build easily cost me less than $150 - $35 of that being the stain/seal) For the top and bottom frames, here are some of the measurements I used (instead of what was on the plans): 2x4's for length of table - 57" All 2x4's for width - 25" The added length and width was to accommodate the bigger Vision (22.5" Diam.) vs the BGE Large (21" Diam.) and to squeeze in larger lumber. These measurements are on the attached PDF file for all of our visual learners. A lot of the other measurements are "plug" numbers really, just make sure you'll have room for the circle you'll cut on the top. My circle is 22.5" to 23" Diameter depending where you measure and it's snug, but dead center front to back and side to side (based on the framing for that portion of the table). Another number that needs to be changed is the "Dimension X" figure, which is the distance between the top of the upper deck and the top of the lower deck. For the pavers I used, I set my Dimension X at 16". and it's almost perfect. This is obviously a number you can measure for and adjust, just make sure your table is level in the end. I had dimensions in mind when I built the table so that I could easily find a cover for it (Approx. 58"x28"). The table is just a tad smaller than the XL BGE table, so there's plenty of covers for it, but no way was I paying for the BGE brand cover. Amazon for the win, here's a link to a cover that I feel is pretty robust and will last at least 5 years in the direct Florida sun: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZZI1E4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Another small touch I added was to get a nomex roll and line the inside of the cutout on the table top (see final pic). Just in case, so the wood doesn't scorch and it's some added bump protection for the grill. Here's the one I got from, again, Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAG2AV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The inset tile on the table top is for placing down hot items, such as an Adjustable Rig from the Ceramic Grill Store (which I'll soon hopefully "acquire"). It's 18"x18" and porcelain, which will stand up to the heat, and it cost me all of $2. If you want to get real fancy, get yourself a scrap piece of granite at a local stone supplier and have them cut it down to spec for you (anticipate about a $50 cost - if you can do better, well then good for you!). The plans call for framing it out and adding 1" cleats around the edges to support it. I felt that wasn't adequate support for the middle and added a 2x4 going straight through the middle of the opening (see rough finish pic), then added cleats at opposite ends. I'm not worried at all anymore if this opening could support something, I actually had the whole grill on top of the tile while I stained/sealed the table. Risky? Nah. The large paver under the grill is a 24"x24" paver from my local Home Depot. Easy to acquire and cost like $5. The smaller bricks under the grill are to provide adequate airflow so that there's negligible heat transfer to the large paver and then to the wood on the table. I've read about guys pulling up their paver and the wood is scorched under it since the grill was directly on it. I also noticed the felt on my Vision cart that was under the grill was a tad scorched when I pulled the grill out. Now, there's a few kamado makers out there like Kamado Joe, Primo and BGE who make "feet" for their grills. I looked around for these, and while they are specifically made for this purpose, no way was I paying $30-$40 for a set of 4 feet. Instead, I grabbed me four 1.25" thick pavers (I believe they are 4"x8") while at Home Depot for a whopping total of......$1.50. Now, one of the more expensive parts of this build was the stain and seal, only because I had to buy a whole gallon of it when I needed maybe a quart. I will totally use the rest on some other builds I have coming up for exterior furniture. I found some stuff made by Thompson's that works with pressure treated lumber, and was in stock at my Home Depot. They make a few colors, and I went with the walnut. I anticipated that the stain would be much darker than it was, but I'm thinking the wood still hadn't "dried out" completely from all the treatment liquids, thus not letting the Thompson's really set in and provide the dark color I was going for. Still though, I do like the color and the protection is nice, even though I'll have it covered. Here's a link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Thompson-s-WaterSeal-1-gal-Natural-Penetrating-Timber-Oil-TH-049801-16/206023511 . I intended to add wheels to this build so that I could easily move the table around, and I'll get to it in the future. Right now it came down to cost and a struggle I had with how to install the wheels. I originally wanted to buy four pneumatic casters between 8" and 10" (two swivel and two fixed). Best price I could find for some decently rated wheels...about $30...each! (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VTAP76/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002VTAP76&pd_rd_r=9427Z1Z9NH3ZQ7QH0ZM6&pd_rd_w=0ZltW&pd_rd_wg=xGbzA&psc=1&refRID=9427Z1Z9NH3ZQ7QH0ZM6) So we're looking at more for the wheels than the whole table...reminds of those ghetto gunships with the huge rims that roll down MLK boulevard down here...funny joke, don't get offended so easily, they're just words, rub some dirt on it. Anyways, with those casters, I was worried that by screwing them into the ends of the 4x4 lumber, that the screws wouldn't have much "support" with the wood grain coming straight on, instead of sideways. Screw grabbing power is much different depending on (hold on tight, crazy words ahead) parallel vs. perpendicular wood grain. Not to mention, the table must weigh almost 400lbs with everything loaded on. So I'll work on how to get some wheels on this thing in the future. For the joinery, I used my Kreg HD kit, which is made for 2x4 and 4x4 pocket hole joinery. A regular Kreg Jig won't be able to accomodate the larger lumber. I also used the Kreg HD screws since they are coated for exterior use. On some of the bracing and where the bottom level attaches to the 4x4, I employed some 3.5" deck screws from Home Depot. This thing is bombproof, and I probably went way overboard, but I feel safe knowing that my grill "ain't goin nowhere". Kreg links: Kreg HD - https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Tool-Company-KJHD-Jig/dp/B008CQ59GY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477000077&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+hd (you'll need a Kreg face clamp as well for this thing to work. The face clamp comes in handy for a bunch of other projects.) HD Screws - https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Tool-Company-SML-C2X250-125-Pocket/dp/B008CQBYGI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1477000077&sr=8-4&keywords=kreg+hd I'm sure I left something out here, and I'm sure someone will remind me, but I hope that this write up can at least help somebody. I know I was grasping at air when I first started looking for plans to build myself. Here's to the table's maiden voyage tonight with a brisket! Happy Cooking Everyone Table Schem.10202016.pdf
  12. Hi Guys, So I've been following a lot of guys on here and got inspired to build a table for my Akorn, I'm not a work worker by any stretch but I have learned a lot along the way. I'm almost done with the build. July 5th will be the day I complete it. I used white pine on most of it totaling in $170 in wood alone. (All from the lumber yard) about $70 in hardware/Stain,prep etc.. It was supposed to be a simple build but as I went along I kept changing and adding as I went. Hope you guys like it. Stain I used which Im not entirely happy with is Thompson water Seal Natural Cedar tone. (The pigment was hard to lay down- steaks, darker areas) Added slots in the 2x4 so the Akron flanges can rest flush and secure Now for the Test Fit! Looking good! I really wanted to add doors but wast sure how to keep GOOD airflow while smoking low and slow So....Im cane up with screens! Added a frame the stapled the screen to the inside of the frame and then screwed in for a clean look. So far so good. Going to be adding led light inside and adding the hooks and Akorn and she'll be done!
  13. Decided I didn't want to bend to cook. Took off to lowes and bought $150 worth of cedar wood and screws. Got the basics from the web and changed the design just a bit to fit my patio. I've never built a table and will never do it again. But 5 hrs later.
  14. Hello! I am in the process of finishing up a wood table for my new Primo. I have taken all the safety precautions I have learned from you guys and others, including using the Primo feet to elevate the grill, putting "soft" fire brick below the grill, and putting a sheet of metal under where the lower vent is on the grill to handle any embers that jump out. My question is this... Has anyone put Nomex on the inner rim of the grill cutout? I am using 3/4 inch boards for the table around the grill. I know I saw someone once mention it somewhere, but it does not seem to be a regular practice. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks for your help and for all the information I have gleaned from this forum!!
  15. Hi everyone. New Vision C owner. Getting ready to build a table. Does anyone know of plans for the Vision C ? I'm not what diameter to cut my hole. Depends on how high up the table intersects with the grill. Also not sure how to account for the bump out in the front lower portion of the grill where the ash tray pulls out. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
  16. When work stresses me out I get in the garage, grab some tools and get my mind right...a little sawdust therapt as I like to call it. I started this thing last week, got the rest of it assembled last night and test fit my Vision classic in it this morning! Still needs sealed and the "lipstick" put on it, but I'm very happy with the progress thus far, and cant wait for my next cook!
  17. So, now that I'm in my new place, and I only have kids 40% of the time, I might actually start thinking about projects. One project is to build a table to house the Big Joe, Joe Jr, and my Bayou Classic turkey fryer burner, along with some work area in between. The question is simple. I plan to buy a BigJoeTisserie the first day they're available. But since I don't know how far away that is, I might want to start on the table design and construction before then. Thus there's a conundrum. The JoeTisserie has a motor hanging off the left side that I hear causes problems with the side shelves, and thus I'm concerned it would affect the table design. Does anyone know if it affects table design, and if so, if Kamado Joe actually provides table design guidelines for people planning to build a table and own a JoeTisserie/BigJoeTisserie? Let me know.
  18. I am getting adjusted to my new Big Joe and I'm still waiting to test out the new Jr. As luck would have it, there's a 100% chance of rain this Saturday... again... bummer. Anyway, I'm looking at an aftermarket table and grill cover. Table first: KJ is obviously in the mode of revamping some of their offerings, the 3 big changes in my mind are the cap vent, fire box, and the hinge. For those that have seen the new hinge design on KJ's Facebook page, noticed that it dips much lower in the back compared to the current hinge. The issue I can foresee is that if I were to buy a wood table, would the table eventually have to be modified once a new hinge becomes available? (assuming I get the new hinge at some point) That's not the end of the world, and I have used a saw before, but just curious what your thoughts are on any potential interference with tables from the new hinge. Grill Cover: I would have to buy a custom grill cover for the table. I'm looking at a double table to fit both the BJ and Jr. With that said, I saw some dome covers mentioned here (or somewhere) the other day (link below). Has anyone used these and had any luck? Good or bad? I think a full table cover is certainly better but it would have to be pretty big for a double table (approx 7 feet long) so I'm thinking about options. Any advice is appreciated! http://www.the-cover-store.com/kamado-dome-cover-34-14-inch-ultima/
  19. I am in the process of wanting to build a small table/island for my kamado grill. I am thinking of building the frame from wood and putting cerment backer board on it. I dont want to spend an arm and a leg building this but I wanted something decent looking. I think the pure wood look is an option but Id rather it be my last one. Does anyone have any recommendations on outer materials. I havent used stucco before but I am very handy and can learn how to do it all. For the price and look I was seeing if anyone had opioins on stucco, stone finish, or tile. Faux stone is over priced and to cover the outer facing its not worth it to pay $100 for little square of it. I have seen some made with tile and they looked pretty nice. Any suggestions? Please
  20. I just finished rebuilding a "hand-me-down" Grill Dome which I will be using as my "deck-top" winter griller (the Komodo Kamado is boxed back in its crate for the winter since I don't feel like shoveling through 10 feet of snow). I did some research on "cheap big green egg tables" and happened upon a photo of an inexpensive IKEA kitchen cart. I decided to add my own mod by incorporating an IKEA spice rack and hangers for added storage. I finshed it with SiKKENS Cetol cedar tint stain and voila! (See attached photo). Here's the list of items used: 1. IKEA Bekvam Kitchen cart: $59.99 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30240348/ 2. IKEA Bekvam Spice rack (note I relocated the placement of the base to act as a backboard - see photo): $3.99 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40070185/ 3. IKEA BLECKA hooks: $4.99 for 4 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40031373/
  21. It was raining for a bit. I'm still working on the Cabinet door for the upper cabinet. I came back from a coffee break to find a guest hiding in the table. I guess I better hurry-up and get this table done. Or else my Kamado table will turn into a Birdy condo. The birds are moving in. Hopefully he isn't tweeting his buddies online, I might get a crowd in there given the tile flooring in there. It's a regular luxury condo for birds.
  22. Howdy - Pacific Northwest lurker here, finally stepping into the light. I just got a Big Joe after a few years of wringing my hands over the investment, but I couldn't be happier now that it's here - more importantly, the better half feels the same way. I'm looking forward to learning more, and at some point giving back to the folks that have contributed to teaching me so much about one of my favorite ways to cook. To start, for any newbie like me that had spent lots of time trying to figure out where the kamado was going to go, I'd like to add to the recommendations on the tried-and-true Grill Dome design for a table (XL). I used pressure treated wood, both new and salvaged, for all but the top and some trim pieces, where I used cedar instead. I also added a 4x4 cross piece at the bottom of the table legs at each end, to provide side grain attachment for the stainless 4" casters I used - that idea came from work bench plans I found while shopping for casters. I spend close to $350 when all was said and done, but most of that was due to my preference for stainless parts, being that I live in coastal Oregon, so rain and salt-air are constantly working at destroying all things that oxidize easily. I followed all dimensions on the GD design, with the exception of the 2x6 support-shelf planks, which I felt better about supporting the grill over time. Fire bricks added the finishing touch prior to lowering the Joe into place, my preference over the provided 'feet', to provide more shielding between the wooden table and the bottom of the cooker. I used 'water-seal' on all horizontal surfaces. For anyone wanting a cover, after building a GD-designed table, you might also consider the appropriately sized GD cover, as I found that the XL cover fits my KJ Big Joe / table just shy of perfectly.
  23. I have a kitchen table that we made out of prefab pine legs, a pine frame, and spare pine flooring as the top. Made over a year ago, it has never been stained or treated, and is sitting out in the shed against the wall. Then, fate brought me the Akorn and an idea... I normally don't need a table, the side tables do me just fine, but with football season starting next weekend, I'm thinking about cutting a U-shape out of this table and treating/painting it (possibly Razorback red/white) so I can just slide the U around the grill during ball games at the house or tailgate. I'll probably put it back in the shed when it's not a game day because I really don't need the excess surface area and would want to preserve the table for as long as possible. Also, the U will still be there if/when I upgrade to a more expensive kamado. For the woodwork savvy people, a few questions: 1) Can this pine even be treated enough to withstand the humidity and elements of Arkansas? 2) Will the flooring end up splitting/shredding a lot when cutting across it? 3) Are there other issues I may run into that I'm not aware of? For everyone else, does the U-shape seem like a good idea? It makes more sense to me than having to reassemble the grill every time I want to move it somewhere without the table.
  24. Just finished my custom cart. A couple days for the stain to cure and it will be moving to the patio for the Primo's permanent home.
  25. I'm getting serious about my table now, my classic vision already has a stand, but I have wood laying around, and want to make a table. I have enough 6x6 PT and some heavy PT lake bulkhead boards I can cut to fit. Yes they are rough finish but it will be a "rough finish" sort of table. In the gulf coast we can't really use anything that can't take heavy moisture and rain, mold. Even PT wood fences rot out in less than 10 years here. I also have some heavy castors and since I own a Kreg jig I"ll use that to help with the framing. I am figuring on cutting into the 6x6 posts to recess the apron boards and shelf boards about 1" or maybe even flush them. Have some plans sketched out for a simple table made heavy and big (its Texas after all). But typically I don't make blueprint type plans just have it in my head pretty much, its a simple table. I am thinking since the space between the top of table and the bottom of kamado is only about 12-13" that I'd do like a few have done and have a support stand on top of the bottom shelf, so the shelf can be made lower to be more functional - to hold more stuff and be lower to ground for making it more sturdy (closer to the bottom of the legs). Would make the stand on top of the shelf out of 2x6 which are 5.5" tall (on sides). I figured when I go to clean out the ashes, having a stand and a old cooking pan or aluminum tray under space made by the 2x6 would allow me to clean ashes and not get them all over, they can fall into the pan I can pull out for the purpose. Heck...just thinking...I could cover the hole in front for the pan with a trim board, heck maybe make a drawer... I read about the heat issues on what was just a short time ago the standard praactice of putting a paver on the wood to protect from heat. I have some extra floor tiles 12x12 and a cutter so I figured maybe I'd cut some air strips out of tile and space the 12x12 tile up a 1/4" For a top, I was thinking of concrete, but it would be so much simpler to make a wood top. But I use a chimney now and when I dump it sometimes a stray ember gets out or sticks to the chimney and I've had some start burning my trex decking (!) so I moved the operation to my concrete & tile area where I have a outdoor kitchen counter and my DCS gasser. But would be nice to have a more fire-proof top...hmm...maybe just excuse to buy a torch? My height I figured would be the same as a kitchen countertop more or less about 35" which is higher than my current Vision stand. I'm figuring 30" depth on the framing front to back and 6' wide, giving a lot of space for food trays and crap, my beer, etc. I have a large deck space so I'm not concerned about size. * Any comments on my plans, or thing I should consider before I get too far along? I'm wondering if the wheels - even as beefy as they are (they are heavy units bought to hold a big table saw but never got that project) are going to look funny mounted to the huge 6x6...sort of elephant on roller skates sort of thing? Or should I just not make it on wheels at all, I can usually get help moving it if needed. How important have people found the wheels? Had also thought of using band saw to resaw the 6x6 into half lengthwise and then it wouldn't look so massive and be lighter weight as well. Hmm...
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