Jump to content

Gasket Replacement - Removing the KJ Dome?


LargeRedJoe
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm replacing the gaskets on my Classic Kamado Joe and was wondering if anyone has removed the dome to do so? It would seem to be easier for R&R of the gaskets. I've watched the dome removal video from Fred at Tasty Licks BBQ but that was for a Big Green Egg.

 

I'm finding it difficult to remove all of the old gasket material, especially the black crud that resists even a grinding wheel.  Acetone is not really making a dent. (And which is why I'm looking to remove the dome - it'll be easier to manage).

 

I would think that I could; 

  • simply tie down the handle to the frame (so the top band doesn't spring up and whack me in the face)
  • unloosen the top band from the dome
  • lift out the dome, turn it over and rest it inside the empty base which will be lined with old towels for cushioning

John's recent video helps but this old gasket crud is really defeating me. In the photo you can see where I managed to grind off some of the gunk (that's not a chip BTW, just a clean spot.) And of course - am I obsessing on how clean the rim needs to be?

post-4109-0-45647100-1406654470.jpg

Edited by LargeRedJoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For what its worth... I replaced my gasket about 4 months ago on my KJ.

 

I simply scraped it with a razor, rubbed it really good a few times with acetone.  Went back and forth with this a few times until most of the old gasket was off.  Simply ran new gasket material, and have had absolutely no problems.

 

I wouldn't make it any harder then necessary ;-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha! I fully agree. But this gunk simply...will...not...come...off! I scrape and scrape, dunk on more acetone, scrape some more. I've used a large scraper and a razor blade scraper. I used a grinding wheel meant for steel.  

 

Maybe I am over-thinking it... :shock:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did not remove my lid.

 

Mine still had black residue.  It was very smooth though... I had it wiped/scraped down to a very thin/smooth layer with patches of ceramic showing around the bowl/lid.  In other words, some area's were down to the ceramic, some areas were not.

 

4 months later, and many cooks, the gasket has given me zero problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would be VERY careful using a grinding wheel. You can easily take off the surface of the ceramic. Grinding wheels and cutting wheels are very aggressive. i would look at a wire brush on the grinder if it was me. a comercial scraper might also be of help.

http://www.amazon.com/Unger-EG150-Blade-ErgoTec-Scraper/dp/B004MDM9WI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406657014&sr=8-2&keywords=unger+scraper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By tbauer320
      Hello. New user to the KJ forum but not this site. I graduated from an Akorn to a KJ 3 Classic.  I did a lot of work on the Akorn to get it running like a clock but my son-in-law decided that I needed a new kamado.  Hence, the arrival of a new KJ3 Classic on my 75th birthday.  I was overjoyed!  I listed my Akorn for free, on NextDoor and a guy roared over to get it. Glad it went to a good home. 
       
      So, within a week and three cooks, the KJ has developed a problem. I cooked a pizza last night which got the temp close to 500 deg by the end. When I pulled the pizza off, I noticed that the latch wouldn't work. The top just bangs down because the dome is too far forward. Further inspection today shows that the dome is not aligned correctly. The left rear near the hinge is over 1/2" off.  So,why did this happen and what is the fix?  I called BBQ Guys where is was purchased. They sent the receipt and told me to register it. I did. They also asked me for pix of the issue. I sent them. Waiting for a response. 
       
      Weird that the issue showed up after the highest temp cook.  After it cooled, it still has the problem.  Wondered if moving the grill a few feet caused the issue.  That should not be a problem as it is on a KJ 3 Classic stock stand.  
       
      I checked all of the bolts for tightness.  All seems correct.  
       
      Thanks,
       
      Tom




    • By Bomb Dog Barbecue
      Does anyone have any experience with grilling whole squid? I toured my local "international" (their term) grocery store today and one item I saw was fresh whole squid. 
       
      I'd like to take a crack at grilling it, but don't want to waste money winging it. Any tips/guidelines you have would be appreciated! Happy grilling 
    • By Bomb Dog Barbecue
      I have a question for the community about fire construction and how much charcoal I should be using when I set up a cook. I have a KJ Classic III and have been using the SloRoller for all of my low and slow cooks.
       
      On some of my larger cooks (one pork butt, a full brisket, and then two boneless pork shoulders) I have burned through all of my fuel before the cook was done. I filled the standard KJ ash basket with charcoal and then light it up with one KJ firestarter. I was smoking everything at around 250F and followed the heating method described by SmokingDad BBQ on his YouTube channel (it worked well!).
       
      Does anyone have an image of what their charcoal looks like when setting up for a 10lb brisket or pork butt?
    • By Colin Barbeau
      Good day guys,
      This is my first post, I was waiting to have something new to post before officially joining. Been looking at the forum for the last year: great stuff! I was very frustrated with the plastic shelves that came with the KJ (can melt) and I am not a fan of building a cart for my kamado: it takes place on the deck, it blocks the view and gathers snow (IMO). I like shelves, they fold back when you're done and you don't see them anymore.   I wanted shelves that are easy to clean, that are foldable, that support heat and that are wider than the standard ones, so I could fit a rib rack or a fully loaded divide and conquer without balance issues. I tried to keep the cost as low as possible while maintaining a design that was sturdy and would last a lifetime. 80 bucks later (Canadian bucks!), I had two aluminum shelves, 50% wider than the original ones and they are also lighter. You can't imagine the joy I got the first time I placed a hot ceramic heat diffuser on the shelves. Wow, this is a cheap luxury and I dig it!   Anyhow, if you guys want to build them, it is relatively easy: - Two 15.5 x 15.5 x 1/8 thk aluminum plates - Four 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16 thk square aluminum tubes, 15 1/4 long (slightly shorter than the plates, just to be sure they don't protrude) - 16 rivets, 3/16 diameters   The tubes are mounted on the original KJ black steel brackets (remove the plastic bars), drill the tubes through the existing screw holes on the brackets and rivet in place. Position the plate, drill and rivet in the tubes.    Hope this will help someone, we deserve better than meltable shelves Cheers and all the best during these challenging times.   -Colin


    • By Cooking in Ohio
      Has anyone replaced your old felt gasket , with the new mesh style ? If so have you tried just replacing just the dome or the bottom half , and leaving the other side with nothing ? 
      Thanks for any input you may have
×
×
  • Create New...