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Addertooth

Kamado K7 Restoration

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Thanks Marauders! Do you think that cement mixture could be applied to the exterior base after wiring and applying DAP. There appears to be a gash of cement missing. I would also like to coat the interior base as well because some rusted up chicken wire is visible from the inside. Would it be silly to create a 1 inch thick layer of this material to the inside base for extra support? Sorry for all of the questions. I just want to reinforce as much as possible. Again, thank you!

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Uhm...changing topic a little bit...when I first got the Karman do I did some research on it...turn out there is only one maker for that one...I called and told them that my firebox had gone to cracker jack and they took my name and number and address. ....today three weeks later a heavy box was at my door 433c6d771d236d6a08b0d551f0aacce1.jpg this was in it I was so psyched I did not pay a single penny for it? I wonder why? I'm still waiting on the one from appliance connection

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Uhm...changing topic a little bit...when I first got the Karman do I did some research on it...turn out there is only one maker for that one...I called and told them that my firebox had gone to cracker jack and they took my name and number and address. ....today three weeks later a heavy box was at my door 433c6d771d236d6a08b0d551f0aacce1.jpg this was in it I was so psyched I did not pay a single penny for it? I wonder why?

...and I'm still waiting on the cerami

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I recently purchased an imperial firebox that will fit my k5. Unfortunately some minor modifications will be needed in order for it to slide all the way to the bottom. I plan on on cutting a block of the fire box off of the side of the cut out where the lower draft arms protrude from the interior. Hopefully the picture will help illustrate what I'm trying to do. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding the tool or blade that would successfully remove this piece without cracking the fire box. Thanks for reading. - J

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Gentlemen, worked like a charm. Thanks! Unfortunately the firebox is going to be a hair to small. It appears to be going a little lower than the lip that was designed to hold it up. Do u suggest (A)grinding a little bit off of the sides allowing it to slide all the way the bottom so that the bottom of the firebox will rest on the floor of the interior? or (B) using paver stones or bricks to raise it up so that it is elevated from the bottom by a few inches? I'm not sure if you want it to be elevated for air flow and so ash can be dispersed on the bottom as opposed to funneling to one condensed area at the bottom of the fire box. Here are some pics illustrating my victory/new dilemma.

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Also Addertooth, took your advice and removed the cart system. I have a feeling it promoted the cracks I will soon be dealing with. If anyone out there wants it, let me know. Perhaps it can be rigged so that the weight is distributed evenly. I plan on tossing it.

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I think the sweat equity paid off. Thanks so much to everyone on here that was able to help me. Especially Theojt – who was nice enough to send me a few left over tiles for my upper damper. I hope you feel they were put to good use. Just a quick run down of some of the item’s I addressed and some things I’ve learned along the way that I hope helps others.

· Wire brush drill attachment worked well to remove the old ash and grit – suggest doing this outside while wearing a mask. Dust was everywhere.

· Original firebox crumbled in to ash like a vampire in daylight. I found a local guy here in NY who was able to sell me a new earthenware firebox along with a heat deflector and pizza stone all for $120. Unfortunately all of these items were too big so I had to carefully grind away the perimeter’s in order to make them work. (Prior posts illustrate the modifications I had to make in order to fit)

· Used a dremel to widen cracks and rub in high heat DAP mortar. Ratchet straps were used in order to tighten the cracks after application. (thanks Addertooth)

· Removed the hinge assembly and spray painted black with high heat rustoleum.

· Removed the springs and dipped in “plasti-dip” to prevent the chalkboard sound of metal scratching against metal.

· With the top dome off I was able to use the wire brush attachment on the upper damper threads. this worked well and allowed me to remove it in order to re-tile.

· Applied the tiles with high heat mortar. Realized there was no way I was going to make the top look decent with whole tiles so I cracked a couple and went with a mosaic style on top.

Thanks again to all of the folks out there that helped me through this. More than a few times I doubted myself and felt I bit off more than I could chew. Had it not been for this site I don’t think I would have been nearly as successful.

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