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i used a plastic spatula used for bondo  metal putty....buy this at any auto  or hardware. store  scrape off excess  sets up quick  a damp sponge is recommended to wet surface before application  wear gloves  and can be lightly wiped somewhat  with sponge  afterward

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Today was the big day.  The Dewalt grinder, with a masonry cutting disk was prepared.  The cutting marks had already been put on the neck of the dome. Blue painter's tape was put on the stainless st

Yeah! The tile arrived today.  I struggled with the camera to catch the subtle shade variations and detail in the picture.  The auto white balance had to be worked to get it to provide a good represen

The stucco removal, down to the base refractory has begun. After about an hour, this is where it is at. My hands are numb and useless pegs (from the vibration) at this point. Looks like a break is in

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Jotuck,

The DAP "high heat mortar" reference is post number 265 in this thread.  This product includes flouric acid, which enhances bonding with the existing refractory cement.  I was shocked (and pleased) you were able to remove your firebox in one piece; so frequently the firebox on the K series are in bad shape after this many years.  I concur, the tile will have to be removed where it is poorly bonded with the cement.  Many people have likened the thinset used by Richard Johnson to be only as good as "wheat paste".  A "latex modified" or even better "Latex and Polymer modified" thinset is a better choice.  One of the clues you are using the right thinset, will be if it states it is for high heat and fireplace use.  The refractory cement expands at a higher rate than the ceramic tile.  If a certain amount of flex is not present in the thinset, then the tiles can begin to separate.  The horizontal crack which runs parallel with the gasket lip is the most concerning, as the section of refractory cement is comparatively thinner there.  I strongly suggest you widen the crack with a right angle grinder to a depth of at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch, and fill it with a good quality product.  Overall, your K3 is in atypically good condition.  You have a many more tiles still present on your Kamado than what is normally seen.  Once you have this bit of Americana restored, I would suggest you keep it below 450 (with 400 being an even safer figure) to discourage future cracks.  I look forward to seeing your efforts posted, it is nice seeing one of these restored (as versus gracing a landfill). 

                             Addertooth

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Jotuck,

The DAP "high heat mortar" reference is post number 265 in this thread.  This product includes fluoric acid, which enhances bonding with the existing refractory cement.  I was shocked (and pleased) you were able to remove your firebox in one piece; so frequently the firebox on the K series are in bad shape after this many years.  I concur, the tile will have to be removed where it is poorly bonded with the cement.  Many people have likened the thinset used by Richard Johnson to be only as good as "wheat paste".  A "latex modified" or even better "Latex and Polymer modified" thinset is a better choice.  One of the clues you are using the right thinset, will be if it states it is for high heat and fireplace use.  The refractory cement expands at a higher rate than the ceramic tile.  If a certain amount of flex is not present in the thinset, then the tiles can begin to separate.  The horizontal crack which runs parallel with the gasket lip is the most concerning, as the section of refractory cement is comparatively thinner there.  I strongly suggest you widen the crack with a right angle grinder to a depth of at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch, and fill it with a good quality product.  Overall, your K3 is in atypically good condition.  You have a many more tiles still present on your Kamado than what is normally seen.  Once you have this bit of Americana restored, I would suggest you keep it below 450 (with 400 being an even safer figure) to discourage future cracks.  I look forward to seeing your efforts posted, it is nice seeing one of these restored (as versus gracing a landfill). 

                             Addertooth

Thanks to you and Marauders for the answers. I'm going to run by menards today and see if they have anything I need in stock. I will see if I can track down an angle grinder, I think my buddy has one. By "Good quality product" would that be Dap or what Marauders is recommending.  Also do you think I will need to cinch up the top with a strap after product is applied to the crack or is the tension provided by the stainless steel braces enough to help it set in the right position.  Here is the list (so far see picture)

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I'm going to try and go by menards today and see what they have the rest I will order. Let me know if I'm missing any thing. Thanks to everyone for their patience with me while I try to get my ducks in a row.

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Hey jotuck- if your planning to use that permatex RTV to reset the tiles, you probably don't want to use clear. Get the black high temp. Those tiles of yours look sharp with black grout. And you'll probably need a couple tubes.

My KK has the same tile with black grout - pics in the "hello from central Fl" thread.

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Hey jotuck- if your planning to use that permatex RTV to reset the tiles, you probably don't want to use clear. Get the black high temp. Those tiles of yours look sharp with black grout. And you'll probably need a couple tubes.

My KK has the same tile with black grout - pics in the "hello from central Fl" thread.

Yea what he said. ^^^^^^^^^^
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Hey jotuck- if your planning to use that permatex RTV to reset the tiles, you probably don't want to use clear. Get the black high temp. Those tiles of yours look sharp with black grout. And you'll probably need a couple tubes.

My KK has the same tile with black grout - pics in the "hello from central Fl" thread.

 

I did order the clear was able to cancel and did get x2 of the black.

 

I used a basic DeWalt 4.5 inch grinder for the work done.  It was completely adequate.

 

My tool guy was gone until after the first so I just bough a cheapy at menards.

 

I'm hoping on starting this up over the holidays. I going to reread the restore threads again than get started.

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Still working on it the k3. I have had more trouble removing the top than I thought I would, the screw is rusted and grease encrusted, and just slow going applying oven cleaner and trying not to be too aggressive with it. On day 3 of soaking with oven clean the wire brush, than twisting the top until I get tired and/or frustrated. I have a drill wire brush going to give that a go in the next day or so. I got in the various caulks  and concrete repair stuff addertooth, marauders, and fire monkey suggested so hopefully, chimney top willing, I can start in earnest.  

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Had pretty good progress. I was able to get the top off, widened the cracks in the pot, and cleaned up the grill grate. I did not get to commit as much time as I would of liked but overall good progress. The wire fire basket is still caked with grime I've tried oven cleaner and elbow grease but I think it needs a drill and wire brush attachment. Thats on the agenda while i wait for it to warm up a bit.

 

Addertooth the top thread is smaller than 3/4 the 10 threads per inch was right but I think maybe 1/2 inch? Not sure, will measure and post it up for your info.

 

I have been dragging my feet on applying the dap, because the temperature in my garage is roughly 30-35 degrees. End of the week temp is predicted in the mid to upper 40s. I wasn't sure if its better to apply dap in warmer conditions or not? If it doesn't matter I can apply it tonight.

 

post-10732-0-34025600-1451908790_thumb.j

 

As for the cracks on this, do I use the same method? Expand the cracks with grinder and than apply dap, or is it too thin? Not real sure best method of repair for these fine cracks. None of them go thru to the other side.

 

Firemonkey on reseting the tiles. My plan is to put the permatex high-temp rtv silicone clear behind the loose tiles to attach them to the cooker, than trace the grout lines with permatex black silicon. Is that what you suggested? I live in IL so we do have temp fluctuations and moisture.

 

Thank you all again for all the help. 

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Move a space heater into your garage, get it up to about 50 degrees F, before you use any adhesive.  Keep in mind many adhesive (including tile adhesives) may put off flammable gasses.  You may want to switch the heater off before you start using the adhesive.  You will want the Kamado warmed up for a few hours before you start the process.  For applying tiles, I still strongly suggest a "latex/polymer modified" thinset, as versus RTV. 

 

On the firegrate (made of refractory cement), yes widen the cracks and fill with the DAP product.  Keep in mind Galaxy Outdoor also sells a Wire Firebasket which will drop right in and replace the grate, should your current firegrate prove to be a future problem.  Another option would be to make a sandcasting of what you have, then pour yourself a new refractory firegrate. 

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Move a space heater into your garage, get it up to about 50 degrees F, before you use any adhesive.  Keep in mind many adhesive (including tile adhesives) may put off flammable gasses.  You may want to switch the heater off before you start using the adhesive.  You will want the Kamado warmed up for a few hours before you start the process.  For applying tiles, I still strongly suggest a "latex/polymer modified" thinset, as versus RTV. 

 

On the firegrate (made of refractory cement), yes widen the cracks and fill with the DAP product.  Keep in mind Galaxy Outdoor also sells a Wire Firebasket which will drop right in and replace the grate, should your current firegrate prove to be a future problem.  Another option would be to make a sandcasting of what you have, then pour yourself a new refractory firegrate. 

Thanks Addertooth didn't even think of a space heater. I will look for the thinset you had pictured in your fix up and buy that, I think I found it on amazon. I will probably just end up replacing the fire basket if i make no headway the next time I try to clean it, already wasted way too much time on it. I did the fire grate using the method you described tonight, and either tomorrow or the day after I will turn on the space heater before I head to work and let it run a couple days after I apply the dap to let it set up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for my lack of updates. Life gets in the way sometimes. Crazy busy at work, girlfriend banged up her knee, the weather, etc.. I did get the inside of pot refinished using Addertooths excellent tutorial at the beginning of the thread and help of all that commented and advised me on what to buy. Basically I expanded the cracks with an angle grinder and then applied DAP to the cracks. To finish it off I applied kiln cement that Marauders suggested. I cleaned the grill grates with a wire brush attachment and a drill. I tried to clean up the fire basket (I think thats what its called) and no luck on that so I will replace it. I did get enough of the gunk off to make it usable and will use it to see if fire can clean it. I need to attach the adhesive backing (gasket?) to base than I can get some fire in its belly. The tiles and finishing hardware will have to wait till spring when the weather is nicer and I have more time. I can't wait to start on it and will be back here asking more questions :roll:  

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After

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