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shmick

HeaterMeter controlled Kettle!

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Since it's way too cold out, and I've got nothing in the freezer to put on the grill, I figured I'd setup my working proof of concept for my kettle controller.

 

The goal: 195F water, the ideal temp for making coffee.

 

Since my HeaterMeter is designed to drive a 12v fan and/or a 5v servo, I can drive a Solid State Relay (sourced on ebay for $7) and use it modulate my electric kettle.

 

The raw layout:

 

** Please keep the "wow, that's really unsafe" comments to yourself. I know what I'm doing and this will all be mounted properly in a proper high voltage box with the addition of a relay bypass switch.

 

ubftQMql.jpg

 

The results for far:

 

 FbgeWXy.jpg

 

Not too shabby!

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I did a quick test with a johnson control A419 to break the power on a slow cooker and it actually worked better than I though for such a simple on/off control. Deadband was set to 1F but I was seeing fluctuations of about 3F throughout the bath of water.

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I already had the HeaterMeter, which costs about $200 once you get a case and probes for it.

 

The only extra thing I purchased for this is the $7 solid state relay on ebay. I already had a 120v receptacle at home. I'll probably spend another $20 or so on a housing and misc parts for it, which basically turns it into a sous-vide controller when not being used to control my Kamado Joe.

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Much respect to you. I only know enough about electricity to be dangerous, and even less about wiring up a rig like that.  I'd probably end up cooking by electrocution! :)

 

 

** Please keep the "wow, that's really unsafe" comments to yourself. I know what I'm doing and this will all be mounted properly in a proper high voltage box with the addition of a relay bypass switch.

 

 

 

With that said, somebody had to do it:

 

Shoot-Youre-Eye-White-Shirt.jpg

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@shmick

 

I put together my SSR last night and got it all working, but I am having an issue with the HM ramping the blower %.

 

For example, I hooked up a lamp and set the target temp to 200-degrees. The HM fires right up and tells the blower to run at 100%. No problems there.

 

But, if I put the set temp 5-degrees above ambient, it tells the blower to run at a low % (perfect for the grill, no so perfect for something that needs 110VAC

 

I tried setting both the min and max at 100%, but that didn't seem to help. Any suggestions?

 

I'll send you a PM too. Thought I'd post here for anyone else that might be following.

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Do you have "On at max only = on" for fan control? If so, it needs to be disabled.


 


When you set the Min and Max to 100%, the HeaterMeter no longer uses PWM on the output, it uses a continuous 10 second loop and triggers the output based on the PID output divided by 100 (fan min speed) times 10 (seconds)


 


ie:


 


If the PID output is at 20%, then 20 / 100 * 10 = 2 seconds on, 8 seconds off


If the PID output is at 60%, then 60 / 100 * 10 = 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off


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Upon re-reading your post, your concern is that the blower % is low, but that's what it should be.

 

If the output on the web gui = 10%, then you should see your light turn on for 1 second and then off for 9 seconds.

 

Notice in the picture I posted above that the output is at 19% to keep the kettle at 195F? That would be 1.9 seconds on, 8.1 seconds off.

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Okay, thanks. The picture is becoming clearer now. 

 

I did notice the lamp turning on and off, but didn't realize why it was doing that. Now it makes sense.

 

I'll give it a test again tonight and if I have time, throw some eggs in a bath to test it out.

 

Thank you for the help!

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Shmick,

If you keep posting stuff like this, you know you're going to have people banging on your door trying to fix everything that's broken in Toronto. About half of everything in Toronto won't turn on and doesn't work quite right. You have your work cut out for you.

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Shmick,

If you keep posting stuff like this, you know you're going to have people banging on your door trying to fix everything that's broken in Toronto. About half of everything in Toronto won't turn on and doesn't work quite right. You have your work cut out for you.

 

Yep, there's a lot of broken stuff here! I've spent the last few years ensuring that http://www.theglobeandmail.com/ stays on. Maybe time to see what else needs to be fixed :)

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