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Review of 24 Inch Pit Boss Kamado


Benm3
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After adding gasket to the bottom damper and a full second layer on the top damper, I was able to successfully damp out a fire. I put a big load of (cheap) charcoal in and ran it up to 700* to make sure the fire was well established, then shut her down. I woke up this morning to a cold grill with most of the charcoal left.

Also, you can see how bad the stock dial thermometer is. And no, this is not a lag issue, it is this far low warming up and cooling down.

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post-11453-0-59239200-1462276946_thumb.j

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I can't believe what a piece of garbage the dome thermometer is.  My maverick is showing a grill temp of 262, and the dome temp is showing right around 170

 

The grill temp likely would be higher since it is closer to the (radiant) heat source and not cooled as much by the ceramic body of the kamado..

Have you tried using the Maverick to measure the temp of the dome thermometer's probe directly?

 

It was the elevated grill, so closer to the dome.  I'm going to take it apart this week and test it in some boiling water to see how close it is.

I picked up a new Pit Boss on Saturday. The thermometer on mine is useless as well. I ran a thermocouple up within an inch or so of the probe tip to compare. The PB thermometer was about 40* low at 200 and about 100 low at 500.

The question now is do I replace it with a more reputable analog unit, put something decorative there, or just leave it as a hole filler and ignore it?

I also added a little felt to the bottom damper which I will test when the rain stops. Otherwise I am pretty pleased, especially at the Costco price point. I will add more of a review later.

 

 

This is the one I bought and is much more accurate than the original as far as bimetal are concerned.  http://www.amazon.com/Teika-Temperature-Thermometer-Fahrenheit-Barbecue/dp/B016VZRMXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 , its cheap and fits perfectly.  I also use a digital igrill prob at the grate level for long cooks.

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I am still debating what to do with the thermometer. If I do put another bi-metal, it will likely be a tel-tru LT225R that can be calibrated and that has a thinner stem so I can also run a thermocouple through the same hole.

I question the usefulness of a dome thermometer in a grill, but perhaps the insulation from the ceramic will make the dome temp closer to grill temp than it is in other grills.

Since the PB can easily get to over 700 degrees, it seems like thermister type probes won't cut it and a thermocouple is going to be needed to handle the grill temps, be able to read high enough, and be accurate across the range. I may end up using the dome hole to mount a small digital thermometer and run a thin 700c/1300F rated K type thermocouple wire that can adjust to the grill height

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After adding gasket to the bottom damper and a full second layer on the top damper, I was able to successfully damp out a fire. I put a big load of (cheap) charcoal in and ran it up to 700* to make sure the fire was well established, then shut her down. I woke up this morning to a cold grill with most of the charcoal left.

Also, you can see how bad the stock dial thermometer is. And no, this is not a lag issue, it is this far low warming up and cooling down.

 

can you post a picture of how you did your bottom gasket?

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After adding gasket to the bottom damper and a full second layer on the top damper, I was able to successfully damp out a fire. I put a big load of (cheap) charcoal in and ran it up to 700* to make sure the fire was well established, then shut her down. I woke up this morning to a cold grill with most of the charcoal left.

Also, you can see how bad the stock dial thermometer is. And no, this is not a lag issue, it is this far low warming up and cooling down.

can you post a picture of how you did your bottom gasket?

There's a picture above, post #41 on this thread.

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After adding gasket to the bottom damper and a full second layer on the top damper, I was able to successfully damp out a fire. I put a big load of (cheap) charcoal in and ran it up to 700* to make sure the fire was well established, then shut her down. I woke up this morning to a cold grill with most of the charcoal left.

Also, you can see how bad the stock dial thermometer is. And no, this is not a lag issue, it is this far low warming up and cooling down.

can you post a picture of how you did your bottom gasket?

There's a picture above, post #41 on this thread.

 

 

thanks!

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I am still debating what to do with the thermometer. If I do put another bi-metal, it will likely be a tel-tru LT225R that can be calibrated and that has a thinner stem so I can also run a thermocouple through the same hole.

I question the usefulness of a dome thermometer in a grill, but perhaps the insulation from the ceramic will make the dome temp closer to grill temp than it is in other grills.

Since the PB can easily get to over 700 degrees, it seems like thermister type probes won't cut it and a thermocouple is going to be needed to handle the grill temps, be able to read high enough, and be accurate across the range. I may end up using the dome hole to mount a small digital thermometer and run a thin 700c/1300F rated K type thermocouple wire that can adjust to the grill height

 

It will. particularly after the grill heat soaks.

 

Also, the placement of the dome therm makes it more useful than on some other grills. It's not the perfect solution but it's useful for lazy days when you don't want to play with wires. It will give a relative reference on your low and slow cooks as to whether your temps are hanging steady and will let you know when your grill is hot enough for grilling (at 500 degrees, a few degrees off, doesn't really matter). Then again, you can probably get those same benefits from the cheap one that came with it. Every time I double check my digital therm against my dome, I always feel like it's close enough though. I do not feel that way with the one of my kettle or the one that came on my akorn. 

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I am still debating what to do with the thermometer. If I do put another bi-metal, it will likely be a tel-tru LT225R that can be calibrated and that has a thinner stem so I can also run a thermocouple through the same hole.

I question the usefulness of a dome thermometer in a grill, but perhaps the insulation from the ceramic will make the dome temp closer to grill temp than it is in other grills.

Since the PB can easily get to over 700 degrees, it seems like thermister type probes won't cut it and a thermocouple is going to be needed to handle the grill temps, be able to read high enough, and be accurate across the range. I may end up using the dome hole to mount a small digital thermometer and run a thin 700c/1300F rated K type thermocouple wire that can adjust to the grill height

 

It will. particularly after the grill heat soaks.

 

Also, the placement of the dome therm makes it more useful than on some other grills. It's not the perfect solution but it's useful for lazy days when you don't want to play with wires. It will give a relative reference on your low and slow cooks as to whether your temps are hanging steady and will let you know when your grill is hot enough for grilling (at 500 degrees, a few degrees off, doesn't really matter). Then again, you can probably get those same benefits from the cheap one that came with it. Every time I double check my digital therm against my dome, I always feel like it's close enough though. I do not feel that way with the one of my kettle or the one that came on my akorn. 

 

 

A few degrees off at 500 I could live with, but if you look at my picture a few posts up, it is almost 185 degrees off at 475!  I guess if it is consistent (I don't know if it is or isn't yet) I could make a conversion chart for it or paint on new numbers.   If the dome location will give usable results, I think I will spend the $25 on a tel-tru.   

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Yes, as far as I know, the only accurate thermometers that will safely go over 1000F use thermocouple probes. The good news is they can be had cheap. I buy 5 packs of 3 meter long probe wires rated to 700c off eBay for $10. The shorter ones are less. I have various devices to plug them into at a range of price points and features but you certainly don't have to spend much just to see an accurate reading.

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With over a month on the boss I felt like I should give an additional update...  Still like the grill and the value but needed to make a few modifications.  First thing was the dome thermometer was way off I took it out and tested in boiling water and it was about 75 deg off so I bought this one from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Teika-Temperature-Thermometer-Fahrenheit-Barbecue/dp/B016VZRMXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00  which happens to resemble the vision thermometers, don't know if that's a coincidence or not. Most recently while I was doing a brisket I was struggling to keep the temp under 275 and had to close both top and bottom vents and noticed a ton of smoke still escaping from the top vent and seemed to be pulling in air through the closed bottom vent as well. I purchased a cast iron top vent which fits from vision grills, just called vision and asked for the CI top vent for the Classic B it was 49.95 w/shipping. I received it yesterday and installed it, it seems to be much better quality and appears to close better even without the smoke buildup. the PB top vent leaked not only from the holes in the top but also from the space between the daisy wheel and the base of the vent. I also did JDubU mod with the felt gasket on the bottom vent slider, but applied it all the way around like jmcc82 did. I plan to do a pork tenderloin Friday and pizzas on Sunday so I will have a better idea how the mod's perform.

 

there is a thread on the top vent under the vision forum, looks like this:

 

VisionGrillcastirontopvent.jpg

 

Future additions: Like I mentioned in an earlier post I bought the PB heat deflector and don't love how high it sits up in the dome so I am looking at the vision brackets and lava stone setup or the grill dome xl indirect rack.

What did you do for the screw holes?  I got a new Vision cap and it doesn't have screw holes like the PB ones does.  Did you drill new holes in the CI?

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