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Hello, I'm new to the PB Kamado family, and wold like to ask are you guys\gals really able to lock in your temps.  I have been able to lock temps with my Ugly Drum but with the PITBOSS it seems to want to jump around a bit.  It's not a huge deal but just wanted to know.  Yes, I did the insulation upgrades  mentioned on the board..  Thanks 

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After I added the felt tape to the bottom and top vents I have had zero issues with control. What are you experiencing?

I totally ignore the dome gauge and use an infrared gun to take temps from the grill. I have a mini loaf pan that doesn't take up much real estate that I can shoot. I haven't done an overnight yet but the last time I did beef ribs, I was able to keep the grill at 250 for 5 hours with minimal adjustment. Not overshooting your initial temp is key, I think. It's hard to make any fast changes.

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Hello, I'm new to the PB Kamado family, and wold like to ask are you guys\gals really able to lock in your temps.  I have been able to lock temps with my Ugly Drum but with the PITBOSS it seems to want to jump around a bit.  It's not a huge deal but just wanted to know.  Yes, I did the insulation upgrades  mentioned on the board..  Thanks 

 

Unlike your metal drum, Kamados have a lot of thermal inertia -- the ceramic holds heat and it takes a relatively long time to heat up and even longer time to cool down.

The trick is to not try and "chase" a target temperature by making adjustments to the vents too often.  With experience, you will get to know where the vents need to be for each temperature setting.  Set them and wait for the temperature to fully stabilize before making another change.  Its like steering a cargo ship verses a ski boat.

 

Also, the primary temperature control vent is the top one.  

The bottom vent is set for a general range of temperatures (low, medium, or high).  It's primary purpose is to prevent temperature spikes (with excessive ceramic heat absorption) when the lid is opened and the top vent is no longer limiting air flow.  It is also essential for fully extinguishing the lump at the end of the cook, which is why it must be made as air tight as possible when closed.

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Hi, I'm brand new to the PB community too, and I also have made the recommended upgrades to my PB per this forum. Had my first "cure" last Sunday, and the top vent melted open (temp reached about 280-300 max). PB is already sending me a replacement, hope to receive within the week.

 

In any event, I like the cargo ship vs ski boat analogy. Thanks JDubU for some great pointers on vent settings.

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I have used up a bag of fuel playing around with the temps... I normally use one starter cube and install the heat deflector and close the lid after about 10 minutes. The temps jump up to 150 in minutes and then takes about 30 minutes to settle in at 250ish. One there it will be in the 230-265 range for 8-10 hours with Very little adjusting.... Which for the most part isn't a problem when cooking...

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Hello, I'm new to the PB Kamado family, and wold like to ask are you guys\gals really able to lock in your temps.  I have been able to lock temps with my Ugly Drum but with the PITBOSS it seems to want to jump around a bit.  It's not a huge deal but just wanted to know.  Yes, I did the insulation upgrades  mentioned on the board..  Thanks

I've written at least 2 dozen times here at KG the exact exercise you need to do to understand the vents settings and your kamado response curve for 225, 250, 275, 300, 325, 350, 375, 400, 425, 475, and 500° F. We seem to be able to find every imaginable topic to make a Sticky Post here, but not one of those posts ranks even though folks have requested such. Temperature control is critical to properly operating a kamado and every newbie has this same question. Go figure.

Search for my posts and you'll find them. Those posts cut through the BS and will get you a good solid understanding of your kamado.

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Hello, I'm new to the PB Kamado family, and wold like to ask are you guys\gals really able to lock in your temps. I have been able to lock temps with my Ugly Drum but with the PITBOSS it seems to want to jump around a bit. It's not a huge deal but just wanted to know. Yes, I did the insulation upgrades mentioned on the board.. Thanks

I've written at least 2 dozen times here at KG the exact exercise you need to do to understand the vents settings and your kamado response curve for 225, 250, 275, 300, 325, 350, 375, 400, 425, 475, and 500° F. We seem to be able to find every imaginable topic to make a Sticky Post here, but not one of those posts ranks even though folks have requested such. Temperature control is critical to properly operating a kamado and every newbie has this same question. Go figure.

Search for my posts and you'll find them. Those posts cut through the BS and will get you a good solid understanding of your kamado.

CC, you have my vote, fwiw, to make that a sticky. That saved my butts (and ribs, briskets too) numerous times.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hello, I'm new to the PB Kamado family, and wold like to ask are you guys\gals really able to lock in your temps.  I have been able to lock temps with my Ugly Drum but with the PITBOSS it seems to want to jump around a bit.  It's not a huge deal but just wanted to know.  Yes, I did the insulation upgrades  mentioned on the board..  Thanks 

 

Unlike your metal drum, Kamados have a lot of thermal inertia -- the ceramic holds heat and it takes a relatively long time to heat up and even longer time to cool down.

The trick is to not try and "chase" a target temperature by making adjustments to the vents too often.  With experience, you will get to know where the vents need to be for each temperature setting.  Set them and wait for the temperature to fully stabilize before making another change.  Its like steering a cargo ship verses a ski boat.

 

Also, the primary temperature control vent is the top one.  

The bottom vent is set for a general range of temperatures (low, medium, or high).  It's primary purpose is to prevent temperature spikes (with excessive ceramic heat absorption) when the lid is opened and the top vent is no longer limiting air flow.  It is also essential for fully extinguishing the lump at the end of the cook, which is why it must be made as air tight as possible when closed.

 

 

Fully tracks with my analogy: "Flying a blimp vs. flying a  fighter jet!"

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 12/24/2016 at 7:42 AM, YouRang said:

I've searched for CC's post on this topic, but can't seem to locate.  Can someone link CC's post? @CeramicChef

He might be talking about the sticky thread in the Vision forum. The Pit Boss and Vision share a lot of parts.

 

https://www.kamadoguru.com/topic/4933-temperature-control-by-vision-company-owner/

 

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