Jump to content


Rutland Gasket and PermaTex Ultra Copper Installation

Recommended Posts

Over the winter my previous attempt to apply a Rutland gasket failed so I had to redo it. A little research showed that a number of people were having adhesion issues with the Rutland cement due to age of the cement or difficulty of application. The upshot is that the recommendation now is to use PermaTex Ultra Copper automotive gasket maker as the glue for the fiberglass Rutland gasket.


Follow the NakedWhiz instructions for surface preparation:



Follow my instructions here (in the photo comments) for the PermaTex application and curing process:



I cannot recommend the PermaTex highly enough. Compared to the Rutland cement it is a dream. I am seriously considering doing my second egg with just four or five layers of PermaTex and no fibreglass to have a nice stiff but rubbery seal. That should make any repairs a snap. Cut out the offending part and reapply the PermaTex after cleaning/roughening.


I have contacted NakedWhiz by email to see about combining the two sets of instructions. We'll see what happens...


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an attribution correction. The original instructions themselves should be credited to @RRP on the Big Green Egg forum with assistance from a friend named Mike Brown. TheNakedWiz hosts the instructions.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Smoke test time! I may have achieved gasket nirvana!! Blower fan is running flat out and absolutely nothing out the gasket. Smoke is blasting so hard it is practically horizontal out the cap vents (with some leaking between the cap and the Egg - time for a bead of PermaTex around the top of the dome where the cap fits). There's is also a bit of leakage around the bottom vent where the blower fits but it is too slight to show up in the photo. 

As long as this stuff stays adhered (and it certainly looks like it is going to) this is the only way I'll be doing gaskets in the future! Get the PermaTex for your Rutland gasket, anything else is a waste of time!



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been doing a lot of cooking lately including low and slow pulled pork, high direct chicken wings, reverse sear strip loin, some griddle work and likely some other things I have forgotten.


This gasket is superb and shows absolutely no sign of detaching. Please do yourself a favour and make your next gasket replacement one of these. A little bit more time for gluing and curing but far, far superior to the adhesive backed gaskets you can but for twice the price. 


And some obligatory cook pron:









Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By CentralTexBBQ
      I guess, I could wait and do an unboxing, install and review video on Youtube but, I'm no Youtuber so, why start now?
      Anyway, I called my local Authorized KJ dealer on Monday and inquired about a replacement Wire Mesh Fiberglass Gasket for an original, pre-2017 Big Joe (Model #BJ24RH). He then called KJ for me (KJ simply referred me to the dealer), I was given the part number #BJ-MGA24 and told that they would in fact be able to order it from KJ. He called again yesterday to say that it will be here in a about week and cost around $90. YES!!!
    • By NJBrian
      I just acquired a primo from a friend who was downsizing.  I am replacing and upgrading components and really wanted an oven style/fiberglass or woven metal type gasket vs. nomex.  This just seems like a cleaner option for the grill surface. 
      I read a story about someone using this type of gasket (thicker than the standard gasket) so they only needed to gasket the lid - not the cooking surface (limited grease and organic matter on a grate level gasket).   
      Anyone do this? 
      BTW - new to the group
    • By Arh
      Hi fellows
      I left my akorn grill on the Max temp for an hour by mistake and after that I can not turn the heat off by closing all the vents. 
      For example, if I cook at noon the grill will stay on 300 to 250 until the next morning! I have to dump water on the hot charcoals to force it turn off for storage. 
      The top vent gasket becomes loose and I cannot put it back since it becomes large and thin. The other gaskets seems fine but I don't mind to add extra and improve ita sealing.
      what do you guys recommend me to do to fix my grill ?
    • By enormous13
      Heard great things about the Rutland gaskets for kamados, so I got one from RRP. With the gasket only on the bottom, the lid wasn't even close to sealing all the way around. So, I ordered another gasket to add to the top. I installed that, and the rear third of the grill near the springs still isn't sealing, no matter how I adjust the bands. 
      Has anyone had a similar issue? I know mostly everyone uses the "flat" Rutlands, but would using the "rope" Rutland work? I'm thinking the thicker rope can help clear up the gap. 
    • By John Setzler
      This is my Kamado Joe Classic "go to" grill that gets used for a majority of my cooking videos AND my personal cooking.  This grill is over two years old and has well over 200 cooks on it. This spot on my base where the gasket is worn off completely just shows one spot.. there are several more like it on this grill.  
      Of all my Kamado Joe grills, I have replaced a gasket ONCE.  I replaced a gasket on a Big Joe and the reason I did that was because Kamado Joe wanted me to make a video on how to do it.  It didn't need replacing.  
      Does the one in this photo need replacing?  Let's think about that...
      Last week, I did something I hadn't done in a LONG time.  I cooked with a temperature control system one day and a remote thermometer on another day.  I ran the probe wires for those in under the dome lid.  On both of those cooks, I noticed a little smoke leaking from between the dome lid and the base.  The probe wires were creating just enough of a gap that I could see a little smoke coming out while the grill was warming up.  After the grill got to temp and the draft was working properly I didn't see that smoke anymore.  The smoke was pretty much leaking all the way around the front 2/3 of the dome lid when it was leaking.  That leak does not occur without the probe wires running under the dome lid.  These worn gaskets still seal the grill well enough that the temp can be controlled at any level I like. 
      This makes me want to do an experiment.  First of all, I do intend to replace this gasket just for the sake of doing it.  But before I do it, I intend to remove the gasket completely and fire up the grill.  I will set the grill at 225 degrees and let it ride and see if I have any issues holding it there with no gasket in place.  
      I'm really curious to see what the 'driver' is when it comes to replacing gaskets on kamado grills.  I see it done a LOT and I'm trying to figure out (just for my own curiousity) why or what makes us replace a gasket.  I have heard people comment that they could not control their temperatures anymore because of gasket failures but I'm not seeing it.  
      What was the reason you last replaced a gasket on your Kamado grill?