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LG KG24 Lid misaligned

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Hello. Bought LG KG24 from Costco UK couple of months back, afaik they are the same company and/or same design as Pit Boss. After first few cooks top lid stopped closing fully and now there's a visible gap when I close it. It doesn't align with the shock absorber anymore as well. Anyone has some idea or instructions on how to fix this issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated. 

 

Attaching couple of photos below as well

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IMG_20190822_182122.jpg

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IMG_20190822_182137.jpg

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This happens when the hinge screws are too tight. Some of the ones on the hinge automatically tighten themselves when you open/close the lid. Others start working loose.

 

Get some red locktite, remove all the hinge nuts, put loctite on each bolt thread, and put the nuts back on. Tighten them until they are only touching, don't crank them down hard. Let it sit overnight.

 

Mine was doing this when new, but since I've done this, the lid has been closing perfectly for over a year.

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Yes you can see by the way the bottom band is torquing upwards the hinge is binding.  Mine did the same thing within a week of being new.  I haven't put loctite on mine, but I do keep the hinges and bolts sprayed with penetrating oil and I adjusted the bolts so they are just snug and it has been working fine since.  You can remove the hinge cover off the back with the 5 black screws and access the nuts on the inside easier. 

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45 minutes ago, KamadoChris said:

Yes you can see by the way the bottom band is torquing upwards the hinge is binding.  Mine did the same thing within a week of being new.  I haven't put loctite on mine, but I do keep the hinges and bolts sprayed with penetrating oil and I adjusted the bolts so they are just snug and it has been working fine since.  You can remove the hinge cover off the back with the 5 black screws and access the nuts on the inside easier. 

 

Could you be a bit more specific about which exact ‘hinge bolts’ you are talking about? Are they the Allen Head bolts, the smaller-hex-headed bolts near them, or bolts that can only be accessed with the hinge cover off?

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37 minutes ago, fafrd said:

 

Could you be a bit more specific about which exact ‘hinge bolts’ you are talking about? Are they the Allen Head bolts, the smaller-hex-headed bolts near them, or bolts that can only be accessed with the hinge cover off?

All of them I adjusted.

 

I actually did it with the hinge off on my bench.  I removed the springs off the back and took the hinge assembly off the band studs (8 large cap nuts top and bottom) and fiddled around with the adjustments until it was opening and closing smoothly, all the nuts are just tight enough there is no play, but no tighter than that.  I didn't loctite as mentioned, and mine haven't moved, yet.  I have also read they can go the other way and loosen off to the point it gets sloppy and causes issues.  It could be done without taking the assembly off but at the time I wasn't sure what was wrong and thought the hinge may have been bent.  IF you loosen the band bolts to adjust the lid or attempt to remove the hinge, you must either zip tie the hinge closed, or remove the springs.  I prefer removing the springs as you can open and close the lid to check adjustment.  I simply used a 12" piece of 12ga copper wire looped through the top hook on the spring and then wrapped it several times around a screw driver for a t-handle and it was simple to remove and install the springs, but you will need another person to hold the lid open to take the tension off for you while you do it.

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40 minutes ago, KamadoChris said:

All of them I adjusted.

 

I actually did it with the hinge off on my bench.  I removed the springs off the back and took the hinge assembly off the band studs (8 large cap nuts top and bottom) and fiddled around with the adjustments until it was opening and closing smoothly, all the nuts are just tight enough there is no play, but no tighter than that.  I didn't loctite as mentioned, and mine haven't moved, yet.  I have also read they can go the other way and loosen off to the point it gets sloppy and causes issues.  It could be done without taking the assembly off but at the time I wasn't sure what was wrong and thought the hinge may have been bent.  IF you loosen the band bolts to adjust the lid or attempt to remove the hinge, you must either zip tie the hinge closed, or remove the springs.  I prefer removing the springs as you can open and close the lid to check adjustment.  I simply used a 12" piece of 12ga copper wire looped through the top hook on the spring and then wrapped it several times around a screw driver for a t-handle and it was simple to remove and install the springs, but you will need another person to hold the lid open to take the tension off for you while you do it.

 

Great info - thanks.

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Mine did the same thing.  Tightened the Hong e bolts and it’s fine.  Hinge bolts are the one parallel to the bowi that the hinge pivots on, at first we tightened them too much and could hardly open & close the lid, backed it off then it was fine.  We just opened the lid and reached inside to tighten the bolts.  I’m lazy!

 

 

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I'm really happy to find that I'm not the only person with this issue. I had left the lid open all night and the next day I'm not able to get a tight fit. My initial thought was I had warped it with the not-quite-level brick it's sitting on and the overnight snafu. I was hoping I could loosen up all the bolts allocated to the hinge to try and dial it back in. After reading everyone else's posts, I'm hoping I get the same outcome as y'all. 

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I installed a new gasket last night.  Gasket replacement went really well, quick and easy, but I decided to fiddle with trying to re-set the lid gap, as I had a small gap on front and tight at rear.  Well, adjusting the rings took twice as long as changing the gasket and it still did nothing.  I even went as far as taking both bands completely off, trimming the felt they put around the body and lid so I had a little more up and down wiggle room, and putting it all back together.  I though I had it pretty good and level, and put the springs back on and the front popped up again.  I feel like it is an issue with hinge/band geometry not allowing the lid to close flat.  I'll just have to wait until the gasket molds itself back sealed like the original one did I guess.

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21 hours ago, KamadoChris said:

I installed a new gasket last night.  Gasket replacement went really well, quick and easy, but I decided to fiddle with trying to re-set the lid gap, as I had a small gap on front and tight at rear.  Well, adjusting the rings took twice as long as changing the gasket and it still did nothing.  I even went as far as taking both bands completely off, trimming the felt they put around the body and lid so I had a little more up and down wiggle room, and putting it all back together.  I though I had it pretty good and level, and put the springs back on and the front popped up again.  I feel like it is an issue with hinge/band geometry not allowing the lid to close flat.  I'll just have to wait until the gasket molds itself back sealed like the original one did I guess.

 

 

You need to adjust the hinge and not the hands. 

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14 minutes ago, m-fine said:

 

 

You need to adjust the hinge and not the hands. 

I'm going to try and loosen the nuts holding the hinge to the studs on the bands next and see if I can get a little more adjustment that way.  The hinge itself works fine it is not binding that is causing the issue.

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On 9/18/2019 at 1:04 PM, KamadoChris said:

I'm going to try and loosen the nuts holding the hinge to the studs on the bands next and see if I can get a little more adjustment that way.  The hinge itself works fine it is not binding that is causing the issue.

I spent another hour on it last night, loosening the hinge cap nuts off the band did nothing for extra adjustment.  I have found when I reinstalled the springs it caused a slight uneven  gap at front from the spring pressure.  What I ended up doing was overcompensating the rear gap by loosened the bottom band and laying a 1/4" piece of wood trim across the back of the kettle and closed the lid so it propped up the back but was sitting tight on front, causing the band to be low on the front and high on the back of the kettle, then tightened up the bolt.  Then loosened the top band with the wood still in there and that band wanted to be high on front and low on back of the lid, so tightened there.  It closes much more level now after putting the springs back on, I am much happier with the gap all the way around.

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