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My next revision so I will have better/easier control of lower temp smoking and still be able to hit 350 degs when needed. By sliding the vent opening slide out of the way I can use my vent cover slider with the right hand tab in place of the original and still get 700 + degrees if I want.

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I think I need to give this mod a try to make it easier to make small adjustments at low temeratures.

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Well I hope your mod works for you! What I have been finding ( as with other smokers) with the finer vent controls you will start to notice how the more humid it has been the more vent opening you will need to reach/hold a temp, as it is in the winter time. The sideways wine bottle shape I did has worked very well for me. The half full location gets me to 400 degrees without a problem, I know if i get down to about 1/8 of an inch open and no wind I loose enough air flow to keep the coals going. The original slider will fit over my vent opening, but with it's design with the tab to the left of the actual positive closing, your still never sure exactly how far you have the opening. But again that's me. And I know everyone has there own expectations and how they like to do things. I've just always worked to improve anything/everything I can to work better for me if I think I can do it.

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Since my intake draft door now has a port to attach a Pimaster IQ 110 hose, it reads 2 on the scale when it's closed down all the way. The Nomex on the back of the draft door helps with that for sure!

 

In this picture the intake draft door is open all the way at 5.5, so now my "numbers" are now 2.0 - 5.5! Still works fine too.

 

 

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Foil Tape 3 by ski_freak1, on Flickr
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So I may have missed it in here, but when doing the BGE gasket, has anyone else had a problem getting the last screw/slide stop to go in? The gasket is so thick I can't line up that last hole anymore. with the other two I suppose it doesn't need to be there but was wondering if anyone else had had this happen.

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So I may have missed it in here, but when doing the BGE gasket, has anyone else had a problem getting the last screw/slide stop to go in? The gasket is so thick I can't line up that last hole anymore. with the other two I suppose it doesn't need to be there but was wondering if anyone else had had this happen.

 

My draft door assembly was already factory installed with ample black RTV behind it, so the draft door frame wasn't coming off and I left it as-is, and I only put Nomex material on the back side of the sliding draft door - and only at both ends. In thinking about the challenge you're having, I was wondering if maybe you could try removing the middle screw and then loosening the left hand screw almost all the way - and then try flexing the frame and putting the stop-screw in. If you could get both end screws in partially you should be able to go back and forth between them tightening each a little at a time until you can get the center screw to catch and start going in. Just a thought...

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So I may have missed it in here, but when doing the BGE gasket, has anyone else had a problem getting the last screw/slide stop to go in? The gasket is so thick I can't line up that last hole anymore. with the other two I suppose it doesn't need to be there but was wondering if anyone else had had this happen.

 

My draft door assembly was already factory installed with ample black RTV behind it, so the draft door frame wasn't coming off and I left it as-is, and I only put Nomex material on the back side of the sliding draft door - and only at both ends. In thinking about the challenge you're having, I was wondering if maybe you could try removing the middle screw and then loosening the left hand screw almost all the way - and then try flexing the frame and putting the stop-screw in. If you could get both end screws in partially you should be able to go back and forth between them tightening each a little at a time until you can get the center screw to catch and start going in. Just a thought...

 

 

 

Ski, 

 

  I tried that initially and am able to get the longer stop started & a few threads in, but regardless of if the middle is in I can't get the one on the end to go all the way. I am thinking my two options are to drill out the whole on the end & use a washer, or just leave it out. It doesn't seem to harm it as the middle screw secures it to the seal, and I have already noticed better control on it. Mine too, btw had some black rtv behind when I pulled it off, but very little, and was bare in some places.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have almost completed my table for my soon to be acquired Akorn Kamado. I basically used the plans from grill dome and modified them to suit my tastes. Any suggestions on how to suspend the Akorn?

Quite a few ways I can think of, it really depends on what your able to make/modify and what look you want. To help give you some Ideas you might go to Homedepot and look to see what they have done for the table model.

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  • 1 month later...

man, I just was putting my cgk away in the shed and it fell over on its face.  the result is that the lid is not evenly aligned with the body, as the hinge appears to have gotten bent.  it is out of alignment by approx. a half inch.  my first instinct was to grab a hammer and try to tap it back into alignment, but then I thought that would impact the screws on the hinge and I didn't want to make things worse.  I am thinking I may need to actually remove the whole hinge before trying to adjust it.  any suggestions or experiences with this would be appreciated.  thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well it was 20 degrees outside, 20+ MPH winds with a windchill in the single digits. But I wanted to get this done. I never liked the cast iron grate, so I bought some metal strips, weber 22.5 grate, and had a 1 inch pipe union. Bent the metal strips, cut and welded the weber grate along with the handles, and this is what I ended up with. The wind made it difficult to mig weld as it kept blowing the gas away from the weld, I turned up the pressure to battle that. I should have spent more time to get a nicer job, but I had to get cleaned up and head to work. But I believe it will be fine.

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Thanks, but it's not worth it, and I have enough to do :-?  I have $30 in just the grate, 2 pieces of steel. I could order the grates online and get them cheaper, but I have been looking all over for regular weber grates, no hinges but I bet I spent $30 in gas at least checking every store around. So I just bought that one and went with it. What I did find after making the grate is that the top swing grate was bent down and at an angle. Straightened that. Too many big pork butts I guess over time slowly bent it down. I just never realized how much it was bent. I'll be added a stronger support off the upright main poll when it warms up a bit and my air tools won't freeze when in use to get it real clean for a good weld.

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