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Does anyone know what model and size of cooking grate he's using in this picture?  Can it replace the cast-iron factory grate directly?

 

Well it was 20 degrees outside, 20+ MPH winds with a windchill in the single digits. But I wanted to get this done. I never liked the cast iron grate, so I bought some metal strips, weber 22.5 grate, and had a 1 inch pipe union. Bent the metal strips, cut and welded the weber grate along with the handles, and this is what I ended up with. The wind made it difficult to mig weld as it kept blowing the gas away from the weld, I turned up the pressure to battle that. I should have spent more time to get a nicer job, but I had to get cleaned up and head to work. But I believe it will be fine.

r1jk.jpg
5swi.jpg
 

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#2 probably means you didn't get the O-ring seated in its groove properly when you assembled it (common mistake).

It's not coming from around the o-ring visually.  It looks like it's traversing up the stack and out between the wall of the stack and the "dial."  There was a distinct "roll" of the smoke doing this.  Not even the slightest wisp around the base of the stack meeting the dome.  I'll take it off and re-do if you think that could be causing an issue.

 

Ghost, I'm a new guy, not an expert. I've noticed a few whisps of smoke from mine at times, usually very smoky times. But it still holds temps well and goes out with vents closed. So I take "airtight" to be a different standard with a grill than a submarine. If it works, do nothing. If it doesn't, find someone with more experience than I.

The temps were going up dramatically (+10-20%) with the wind and my not doing anything to the vents.  I wasn't worried about the visual smoke existing as much as i was looking for clues of where the gusts were pushing through more.  The bottom vent I think is/was the main culprit.  The slider had more play that I would have thought...so i just put gasket material behind it.

 

 

#2 probably means you didn't get the O-ring seated in its groove properly when you assembled it (common mistake).

 

 

I agree, it took me at least 3 tried to get it right.  I get a few puff of leaked smoke here and there and I have no issues to maintain temp nor to snuff the coals.  

 

People need to stop worrying when they see a puff here and there.  If you CANNOT kill the fire with the closed vents, then that's an issue.  (usually takes 2+ hours depending on the temp)

 

I killed the fire with the vents, but the wind had died down by then.

 

I wouldn't have touched it except for the swings w/ temp with the gusts of wind.  I guess that could be due to the extra vacuum pull from the draft too...hard to say.   It was only 10mins off of my day, so no big stress about it.  I have a 9# brisket to do, so wanted to make sure ducks are in a row given how windy it is today.

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Does anyone know what model and size of cooking grate he's using in this picture?  Can it replace the cast-iron factory grate directly?

 

Well it was 20 degrees outside, 20+ MPH winds with a windchill in the single digits. But I wanted to get this done. I never liked the cast iron grate, so I bought some metal strips, weber 22.5 grate, and had a 1 inch pipe union. Bent the metal strips, cut and welded the weber grate along with the handles, and this is what I ended up with. The wind made it difficult to mig weld as it kept blowing the gas away from the weld, I turned up the pressure to battle that. I should have spent more time to get a nicer job, but I had to get cleaned up and head to work. But I believe it will be fine.

r1jk.jpg

5swi.jpg

 

 

I know Ebijack, like he said in his post its a Weber 22.5 grate that he cut and welded.

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  • 1 month later...

I've read a lot of the pages on this thread about sealing the Akorn with new gaskets. What I want to know is what would be the benefit of doing that? Mine has a couple of places where the smokes comes out a tiny bit. Would sealing that up give me more flavor on my food? What is the purpose of it being sealed tight? 

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I've read a lot of the pages on this thread about sealing the Akorn with new gaskets. What I want to know is what would be the benefit of doing that? Mine has a couple of places where the smokes comes out a tiny bit. Would sealing that up give me more flavor on my food? What is the purpose of it being sealed tight? 

If you have a newer model Akorn you will have a problem finding a better gasket than the factory one. Have you pinched your gaskets all the way around yet? If No then do so. Mine had a couple of leaks also till I pinched it. No more leaks.   :)

Most of these mods on here were meant for older model Akorns which did have a few problems. Most of the newer ones are pretty much problem free now.

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I've read a lot of the pages on this thread about sealing the Akorn with new gaskets. What I want to know is what would be the benefit of doing that? Mine has a couple of places where the smokes comes out a tiny bit. Would sealing that up give me more flavor on my food? What is the purpose of it being sealed tight? 

If it only comes out a tiny bit and you have no problem snuffing out a fire, then don't worry about it.

 

Like said above, you'd likely have trouble finding a better gasket, and by messing with trying to get a new one on, you'd probably do more damage than good.

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I haven't done anything to try to stop the leaks since they weren't significant. I wasn't planning on doing anything since it doesn't bother me at all. Any grill I've ever had had smoke coming from all over the place. :)

 

I was just wondering why it was so important to seal it up so there isn't any smoke coming out. I guess you answered my question the reason is to snuff out the fire. Mine does that just fine so I'm good. 

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  • 1 month later...

I am new here, and don't want to be a douche. Maybe I need to read way back... But here goes. Has anyone, besides me, used a pair of slip joint, a.k.a. Channel-lok/Robo-grip, pliers to simply pinch/bend the ash pan latch "hooks" down a little to tighten the compression, thus making the gasket compress tighter? I have pictures if needed. I had the same issues after a couple of +700 temp snafus.

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I am new here, and don't want to be a douche. Maybe I need to read way back... But here goes. Has anyone, besides me, used a pair of slip joint, a.k.a. Channel-lok/Robo-grip, pliers to simply pinch/bend the ash pan latch "hooks" down a little to tighten the compression, thus making the gasket compress tighter? I have pictures if needed. I had the same issues after a couple of +700 temp snafus.

 

No but do you have the ash pan pin slid into the slot?

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I am new here, and don't want to be a douche. Maybe I need to read way back... But here goes. Has anyone, besides me, used a pair of slip joint, a.k.a. Channel-lok/Robo-grip, pliers to simply pinch/bend the ash pan latch "hooks" down a little to tighten the compression, thus making the gasket compress tighter? I have pictures if needed. I had the same issues after a couple of +700 temp snafus.

 

No but do you have the ash pan pin slid into the slot?

Yes, the pin is in the slot. The seal is now compressed tightly with zero smoke escaping.
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  • 4 months later...

I will say I believe Char-Griller is watching this thread. I just bought an Akorn a few weeks ago and after reading this thread I wanted to check for leaks on my new smoker. I checked my bottom air vent and it was already sealed with some sort of glue/silicone around the opening on the ash pan.

 

I must say, so far I love my Akorn, I am still trying to master keeping it at 225 for a low an slow cook.

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I must say, so far I love my Akorn, I am still trying to master keeping it at 225 for a low an slow cook.

 

Start just one little spot in the middle of the coal and when your sensor gets to about 170 start closing the vents until stable at 225.  The key is to start only one little spot instead of a wide area.  Works for me.

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